CIC Hut, Ben Nevis

Italian Madness

Grey Corries Traverse

16-18 July 1999

Present: CIC - Margaret (Mags) B*, Peter I, Brian S, Nina T (* Guest)

Italy - Mark L

Grey Corries Traverse - Jo L

The original June visit to the CIC Hut was delayed to July due a SMC maintenance/gas lift. A small select group set off for the hut on Friday evening from the new car park at Torlundy. Meanwhile Jo left the yellow peril 2km beyond Corriecoille, walked to Lairig Leacach bothy in the sunshine before summitting Stob Ban (it was now cloudy and damp). Continued to Stob Chorie Claurigh then along the ridge to Stob Coire an Laoigh where a cloud curtain call revealed breathtaking views of the Allt Coire Rath to the south and magnificent sunset oranges and reds over Aonach Mor to the west. Pitched the tent in rapidly fading light on a level(ish) spot on the Allt Coire Easain side of the traverse to Sgùrr Chòinnich Mòr.

Zzzzz. The morning was cold and clear with the first rays of light dancing seductively over the horizon as we clipped into our crampons and scratched the frozen surface of the glacier. A night of listening to lashing rain and sliding down the unlevel tent was only rivalled by a morning of lashing rain and sliding down the unlevel tent!

Time for a pee and a nice cup of tea. No climbing likely today with mist levels just above the hut - the lower part of the Douglas boulder was only occasionally seen - late breakfasts all round! After a few hours or so of crunching up the slope and around the crevasses we were right below the main summit spire of rock and ice, etching into the clear blue sky. Cloud, cloud, cloud, nothing but cloud, eventually decided to make a move, couldn't stay there forever I guess - soon summitted Sgùrr Chòinnich Mòr before battling onto Aonach Beag.

What is the point when its like this, lets just have another cuppa and wait around for some improvement. The climbing was in fact straightforward, scrambling really, like Observatory ridge but with a bit better weather I’d wager. Puff, pant, this tent and stuff weighs a ton and its' removal would result in it being left behind - lunch was a thoroughly saturated slimy Snickers found in my pocket (money making scheme no. 4538656, waterproof chocolate bar wrappers….). Someone's removed Aonach Mor (well, I never found it!)

Slurp. The clouds lifting but the rain is coming down. I’m breathless as we near the summit, spectacular snow wedge with awesome views of the other Monte Rosa peaks. Strange how much I enjoy this sort of thing, roaming around, navigating, bagging, fresh air and solitude, what is this madness?

Somebody’s humming "like a virgin", must be too much bromide from the tea. Back now at the Madonna’s feet. I squelched onto Càrn Mòr Dearg, a soul destroying series of false summits. At the summit thoughts of 'Lets get ootta here' overrode any desire to consider Ben Nevis so headed off down the steep scree in thick cloud into Coire Leis … never has anything so contrasting to the landscape as the CIC's bright orange gas cylinders been such a welcome beacon!!!

Even in the CIC there is a limit to the amount of tea that can be drunk! The meet secretary found himself venturing outside and making his way up into Coire Leis in the afternoon to see if there was any sign of Jo. In the poor visibility there was a risk of her missing the hut whilst descending a first time to this side of Ben Nevis. However, she was soon spotted half way up the Coire and before long was safely across the swollen waters of the Allt na Mhuillin and heading down for the warmth of the CIC. The heat is just too much, glaciers are the hottest place on earth, huge parabolic skin burners. Bright orange gas cylinders, and now Brian, I must be hallucinating! I waded across the river (after Brian asked if I was wet cos it was running high … !?!) before collapsing into the CIC Hut, the warmth of which was made all the more welcoming with whisky, tea, and the removal of that pack!

Better get the kettle on. The water has run out, but the end is in sight.

That last cup was exceptional, even if I do say so myself, and what better place to chill-out than the CIC. Sitting at last, reflecting on a fantastic ascent of Pollox with a German friend that I see all too infrequently. Changed now, and settled into the hut (well chuffed too cos the others have been stuck here all day and I’ve had an epic).

It's not about what you climb or where you go, it's just about getting away…

Sunday was marginally better than Saturday, drier but with a cold wind blowing mist around thus making climbing unattractive. Jo and Pete headed home whilst Brian, Nina and Mags went to Poldubh Crags with Sinclair and Philip from the Langside (who'd camped above the CIC). At Poldubh the rock was dry enough to climb on south facing crags so Dundee Buttress was chosen, giving 2-3 short routes ranging from HS (Hard Severe) to HVS (Hard Very Severe). The others headed home to Glasgow, leaving Nina and Brian to finish the day on Cavalry Crag Buttress starting up Vampire (HS,4a). The climb to the top of the buttress was completed up Storm (VS,4c) via the hanging belay at the prominent pine tree! In conclusion, it although it was disappointing not to climb at the CIC, most folk got something from the weekend with the climbing at Poldubh giving some compensation.

Overall report by Brian S; triology inserts mastermined by Mark L and additions by Jo L