Trip to Isle of Mull

14-16 May 1999

Present: Jo & Val L

Friday

The cycle trip to Mull filled me (Val) with a certain amount of trepidation; it had been over 2 years since I had been on a bike, and this was to be a 3-day trip! However, I was not to be put off! We arrived in Oban just before the ferry was due to leave to the tune of ‘Oi, you two! If you're catching the ferry bloody well hurry up!’ So much for peaceful laid back islanders. After studying the map the previous evening it had been decided that Salen, being central was a better place to stay than Tobermory in the north (also 'only' 10 rather than 20 miles distant. All went well and we sailed along. We'd arrived on Mull at 5pm and wanted to be in Salem before dark (10pm), so time was short! It's great on the bike, you have time to look around and you're often high enough to nose over garden hedges!?! You can let your mind wander and just enjoy the wind blowing through the hair. Wonderful views across the bay. Little breeze. Everywhere looked perfect. We arrived in Salen just under the hour (amazing - I felt really pleased with myself!). After food we wandered down to the bay. Suddenly we heard some panting behind us, so turned only to be faced with a bunch of runners! It was the island and hill race where competitors sail between three islands (Skye, Mull, Jura?) and on arrival some poor soul is rowed ashore in a dinghy and runs up the designated hill on that particular island…... The main hill on Mull (Ben More) is over 6 miles from the bay so they had a real excuse to be knackered!!!

Saturday

The next day, after a substantial artery-blocker breakfast, we were on the road! The plan had been to take the coastal road around the upper part of the island to Calgary, visit Tobermory in the afternoon and then back to Salen. There was no wind, the sun was out, no traffic, and few roads to take a wrong turning; just perfect really! We lunched on the beach (white sand, magic views), the sun shone.

We were nearing Calgary Bay when 'BOING'! My chain broke. We stopped and looked at it awaiting inspiration. None came. Looked longer at it. Still no inspiration! As I free-wheeled into the Bay we were distracted from our own dilemma. A Cairn terrier, with lead in tow, shot across our path in hot pursuit of a flock of sheep. Total pandemonium. People everywhere where belting after this mutt (which had now singled out a lamb). The dog obviously thought it had found either a new playmate or his next months dinners all wrapped up in one woolly parcel. Luckily we didn’t find out as the owner took one final dive and grabbed the trailing lead and that was that. Back to the chain. We managed, with bikes, to hitch to the next village. In our naivety we hoped there would be a full range of shops including a nice friendly bike shop. Alas, not! The only cycle shop is in Salen. Hhhhhmm, how to get back. We sought inspiration in the local café. A second coffee (and ice-cream - ed) and a study of the road map. Then a Mars Bar. Still no answer, it really was going to be a matter of walking back (12 miles using the inner road). Jo's idea to cycle to Salen and buy the link then come back sounded plausible. I started walking. However, an island ladies rugby tournament in the south meant Salen was deserted! The shop was open, but no-one was in sight. Jo eventually returned, having hitched. After a short time of walking together, a car heading in our direction stopped, I took the lift (with pannier) and Jo continued on the bike (making it to Salen in good time cos by using the luggage rack as a seat she could effectively 'run' on the bike ……. yeah, I couldn't figure it either!). By this time the cycle god had returned and mended the bike for free as his wife had been in the winning team! We went to bed at dusk - that must be a first since I was about ten years old.

Sunday

The next day we headed to Ben More hiding the bikes behind rocks. The top was shrouded in cloud, however we hoped that by the time we got there it would have cleared. It hadn't!, and we couldn't see a thing. We didn't hang about as it was pretty chilly, and we had to get back to find the bikes and cycle 16 miles to catch the last ferry to the mainland at 5pm. There was definitely a big sense of achievement as I was able to add another Munro to my ever increasing list (2 at the last count!). As we descended the cloud lifted, so at least we could see where we'd been! It turned into a lovely warm sunny day. Stacks of time before the ferry. Life was so simple. 'BOING'! Jo’s back tyre went flat! Feverish pumping achieved nothing but a mild hissing sound (and lots of swearing when the pump broke - Ed). Suddenly the ferry seemed such a long way away. Oh what to do? Every idea seemed hopeless and there wasn't time to go back to the magic bike shop. Jo wistfully commented that we just needed a van to come by. And then, as if on cue, around the corner came a trail of ancient motorbikes followed by their back-up van! We crossed our fingers, stuck out our thumbs and leapt into the van's path. Luckily, our saviour, carrying replacement parts for the bikes that were touring Britain raising money for the Macmillan Nurses charity, had space for 2 further bikes, and was also catching our ferry!!

Once back in Oban we checked into the closest hotel on the quay, in sight of the railway station, so the bike could remain unrepaired until Edinburgh. In the restaurant we were serenaded by ‘A Scottish Evening' that consisted of traditional Scottish dancing and singing put on by a local group. Just the thing to complete a really good weekend in Scotland!

Val L