CIC Hut Meet
Ben Nevis
16th-18th July 2000

Present: Peter I, Anne M, Andy R, Marcellus S and Brian S.

The Y2K meet to the Ben was again between the 16th and 18th of the month, but this time July rather than June. The turn-out was small and select with only 5 trekking up the Allt a'Mhuillin on Friday. Pete arrived first in the early evening followed later by the others who had travelled up from Edinburgh together.

Saturday

Saturday morning was dry but overcast with the higher parts of the mountain obscured by mist. Andy and Marcellus headed off to the hardest of the Ben's ridges,Observatory Ridge (V Diff) whilst Anne, Pete and Brian choose the easiest of the ridges, Castle Ridge (Mod/Diff). The latter party of three approached Castle Ridge by traversing round below the Carn Dearg Buttress thereby missing out the lower slabs above the Allt na Mhuillin. This traverse approach passes the start of many of the classic rock routes of the Carn Dearg Buttress such as Bullroar, Centurion, The Bat, Sassenach and Titan's wall. No one was attempting these routes, however, since the rock was damp and mist cloaked the upper parts of the buttress.

The ascent of Castle Ridge is described in the guide book as "a worthwhile excursion, but mainly scrambling with a few moderate pitches". Indeed, the rope was hardly necessary until past the middle section, which is almost level. Thereafter, the ridge narrows and steepens. On damp rock and entering wet mist, Anne and Pete were grateful for the rope on this upper section, particularly crossing a short slab leading to the final steep rib and the top of the buttress. By this time, it was raining properly and the party traversed away from the north wall of Carn Dearg to descend the steep screes to the half way Lochan and the path back round to the CIC rather than continuing round the other way to the summit of the Ben.

Meanwhile, on Observatory Ridge, Andy and Marcellus were into more difficult terrain much sooner and found themselves pitching the route in the damp conditions. Observatory Ridge is graded Very Difficult and described in the guide book as "a really splendid route, a must for everyone". Andy and Marcellus had the route to themselves, however, and higher up in the mist and rain, found the route to be time consuming and slow. Care and patience were finally rewarded with their arrival at the top of the route near the summit cairn from where they descended the Carn Mor Dearg arête to Coire Leis and the short distance down to the hut.

The CIC drying room was put to full use whilst tales of sunnier climbs were exchanged over tea and other stronger beverages. The usual protracted meal with accompanying wine from Brian's cache in the loft, rounded off the day while the mist and rain closed in outside.

Sunday

Sunday morning was similar to Saturday morning, still overcast, but again with mist higher up. Although no longer raining, the rock was clearly still wet from the overnight rain. All agreed to go down in search of some sunnier and drier conditions (see footnote) In Pete's case this meant going home to his garden, whilst for Anne, Brian, Andy and Marcellus a visit was made to Creag na-h-Eighe, between Dunkeld and Pitlochry. A number of the short routes on the right (east) end of the crag were climbed, ranging from V Diff to VS, all on warm, dry rock in the sun!

In conclusion, a worthwhile weekend for the small FMC contingent. Perhaps it will be drier on the Ben for the Y2K+1 meet! Thanks to the SMC for the use of the hut.

Brian S

Footnote: Sunday afternoon on the Ben turned out to be dry and sunny after the unpromising start. This was the day that Jamie Andrew from Edinburgh reached the top of Ben Nevis to prove to himself and everyone else that he could climb again on the mountain where he had shared many days with his friend Jamie Fisher. The previous winter on the Droites, above Chamonix, the pair were trapped in a five day storm in which Fisher died and Andrew narrowly survived but lost both hands and both feet to frostbite.