FERRANTI
MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
JOURNAL 2001
Frustratingly
2001 was most memorable in the FMC for the FMD (Foot and Mouth Disease) and the
disruption it caused to our usual access to the hills. A number of weekend meets had to be
cancelled, made unofficial or rearranged to different venues to what was
originally planned. Despite this, there
were a number of very successful meets that were enjoyed by a good number of
members
Ferranti Mountaineering Club 2001 Journal Contents
20-23 April Tigh
Iseabail, Kintail
21-23 September Strawberry Cottage
12-14 October Inbhirfhaolain, Glen Etive
26-28 October Annual Dinner, Spean Bridge Hotel
16-18 November Aviemore Bunkhouse
14-16 December Christmas Dinner, Muir of
Inverey
26-28 Jan – Mill Cottage
Partakers
of the haggi: Andy (meet sec), Simon
& Ruth, Brian, Anne, Nina, Willie, Calum, Fiona, Steve R, Debbie, Morag,
Froach, Cathy, Tony Bl, Tony K, Richard, Mark, Jo, Mac, Marcellus.
Burns’ Supper
Wow!
What a lot of people! Fortunately only 1 over the hut limit of 18, and some
people only arriving on the Saturday; therefore the legendary ballot narrowly
avoided.
The
Dalwhinnie Truckstop was a bit posher than usual this winter. Renovation of the
usual section meant that the truck part was temporarily moved to the posh part.
HUGE fish'n'chips with 2 gallons of tea for the usual 5 quid. Sound. Enough to
hold up a hungry trio on a Friday evening! which is exactly what happened to
the keyholders.
Climbers
for Saturday were Steve, Debbie and Marcellus.
Avalanche conditions were forecast very high after substantial snowfall
and consistently low temperatures in the previous two weeks. We actually had
some Rocky-Mountain style layers with some crispy slab on top. Any usual
windslab added to the otherwise abnormal conditions. Wisely, the trio climbed
Fiacaill Ridge. Wimpily, though, they
avoided the only hard part and tramped around the boring snowslope. Lost marks,
there!
The
main massed ascent was a big skitour of the ridge South of Feshie. First group
was Nina, Simon, Ruth, Mark, Andy and Willie. Andy considerately packed Marks skis
for him, but when we unpacked the cars Mark had two IDENTICAL pairs of skis! A
quick drive back to return Tony's skis was required. Eventually we got started,
but pretty soon Willie collapsed in a pile of coughing and retired to the, hut.
Snowlevel reasonable, but quite a lot of low cloud and certainly no views of
the loch to the North.. just misty views down the gullies. The 2nd wave was
Tony, Tony, and Richard who started via the hire-shop in Aviemore. Some good
micro-navigating along the ridge and then a SUPERB run down into the NW facing
corrie. Lots of whooping from Mark, Nina and Andy! Just enough daylight
remained for a VERY quick and hairy re-ascent and traverse around to the next
corrie and run the ridge. Lucky we were careful with our route selection,
because after another magnificent run, we emerged in the biggest avalanche
runout debris that we've ever seen - anywhere! The runout must have travelled
2km from the breakpoint and had scoured the burn clean, leaving moraine-style
debris 20ft up the sides. The debris was a few hundred yards clear of the
snowline, and maybe 20-30ft deep, 100-200ft wide. HUGE!
The
main event was of course the meal. Ann and Jo had organised large amounts of
chopping, and the meal commenced. There was a main table and a
"lower" table, just like school. The lower table got just as much
nosh though, and drank more wine. Menu:- Soup (left over from Burns 2000! and
missing a few ingredients), Haggis neaps & tatties, Rasp & Plum
cranachan, mega-cheesegasbord, and coffee+mints. Ruth was very upset because
she fell asleep after too much veggy haggis and missed her after-dinner mint!
Everyone was stuffed.
A
few folks elected to tent it, in the hope of sleeping through Willie's coughing.
The
biggest event that weekend was the Husky racing in the Aviemore forest. Brian
and Ann spent a while mixing with the action, but Brian struggled to stay with
the pace on his crutches. Nina, however, had no problem in the Jetta, and we
were pulled by the highway patrol for speeding on the way to the Northern
Corries! They let us out of our shackles early enough for Nina, Ruth and I to
climb the Vent, (II/III) in reasonable safety after digging a substantial
avalanche pit below the route. A couple of tough chockstone sections, but
surprisingly pleasant cornice exit. Marcellus surfed at the resort, while the
Tonys slogged a Drumochter summit. Back at the cottage, there was a lot of
local grockling etc. during the day. Lots of people left LOTS of gear behind,
although Fiona was neat and tidy, taking all of her stuff home and also the hut
keys as a souvenir!
23-25 Feb – Raeburn
Meet
Sec: Mark
Not
a lot remembered about this meet,
Believed to be present: Peter; Helen, Morag;
Cathy; Simon; Ruth, Nina, James; Mike; Mark; Laubie; Willie; Ken; Andy
On
Saturday Peter; Helen, Morag, and Cathy’s attempt on the hills was turned back
by soft powder snow and poor weather. Ruth, Nina and Ken climbed Western
Buttress on the West face of Aonach Mor on Saturday. Andy stayed at the hut
where the main water pipe conveniently froze, requiring a fair amount of
remedial attention in the evening. On Sunday Ruth and Nina climbed Goat Track
Gully in Coire-an-t-Sneachda.
20-23 April – Tigh Iseabail, Kintail
Present: Tony K (meet sec), Tony Bl, Peter F,
Brian, Anne, Pete and Helen.
This
was the club’s first visit to Willie Nicholson’s bunkhouse at Camusluinie at
the head of Loch Long, north of Dornie. A small, friendly place, we had it to
ourselves.
The
Foot and Mouth epidemic was now coming under control, and the estates around
Kintail were happy enough to welcome walkers provided they soused their boots
and car tyres in the requisite disinfectant. However the hills were amazingly
quiet, with hardly anyone to be seen the whole weekend.
There
was snow high up as various parties set off on the Saturday. Pete and Helen set
off from the east end of the Five Sisters, as did Tony and Peter, the two
parties reaching Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe and Sgurr nan Spainteach respectively
before deciding to head back to the glen.
Brian
was just out of plaster after his accident at New Year, so was understandably
taking it easy. Brian and Anne, with Tony B, decided to visit Inverewe Gardens
and had a very pleasant day.
On
Sunday the weather was quite good. Pete and Helen bagged A’Ghlas Bheinn, whilst
Tony, Peter and Tony headed off for Beinn Fhada, which gave splendid views on
the high plateau. Meanwhile Brian and Anne headed off to Armadale Castle
Garden, the seat of the Macdonalds in Sleat. The house was abandoned in the
1920’s and is derelict, but the gardens are beautifully kept.
The
Monday was again fine. Tony, Tony and Peter drove round to Loch Hourn and
ascended Beinn na h-Eaglaise above Arnisdale- very quiet and peaceful. Pete and
Helen headed home, whilst Brian decided it was time his foot got going again
and visited the Eas Ban waterfall above Camusluinie with Anne.
All
in all, an excellent weekend.
18-21 May –Glen Etive, camping
Present:
Jo L (meet sec), Val L, Nina T, Valerie C, Mark L
The
official trip to Skye was cancelled due to lack of support meaning the ferry
trip to the hut wasn’t financially viable to the interested few. Although it was now considered 'safe' to
head into the countryside as the FMD outbreak was 'under control', the islands
were also still nervous of visitors from the mainland.
Saturday:
The morning was wet and dreich, so everyone had a good and thorough expedition
around the gear shops in Fort William.
After much browsing, some buying, and plenty of eating, the sun started
to poke through the clouds …. okay, wishful thinking, but the rain had at least
stopped. We drove up Glen Nevis, had a
quick foot dunk in a bucket of disinfectant, before heading along the path by
the Water of Nevis. A scramble through
the boulders at the water's edge, a pootle across the floodplain, a hop skip
and a jump across the wire bridge to Steall Hut, a clamber up to the
waterfall. On discovering a gear shop
had been missed from our morning's mission, this was duly visited before
heading to the Kingshouse for nosh.
Disappointing though the weather may have been, it is such a wonderful
release to walk freely without an encumbering rucksack.
Sunday:
Appalling conditions overnight, rain, rain, and more rain! The tent Jo and Val were in leaked, soaking
the feet of the sleeping bags, but lucky no other gear (so Steve, sorry, but Jo
won't be buying the tent!!!). The
morning was dull and overcast, not a hillwalking type of day so a long
breakfast was had and enjoyed by all.
Eventually broke camp and, having heard a forecast, decided to head east
in the search of some climbing at Creag Dhubh.
Mark, Valerie, and Nina did a couple of scary looking ascents, whilst
Val and Jo wandered up onto Spirean Beag (596m) above the crags for some
surprisingly good views!
8-10
June – CIC Hut
Present: Brian (meet sec); Anne; Graeme M; Jo;
Martin; Marcellus, Mike; Nina; Ken
Saturday:
Cold and raw with snow about 3500’! Brian still recovering from Achilles tendon
injury limited himself to the ascent of Carn Mor Dearg with Anne and
Martin. Martin continued along the Carn
Mor Dearg aręte and up the Ben complete the circuit. Graeme, Jo and Peter headed up the Douglas Boulder followed by
Mike and Marcellus. From the top of the
“Boulder” Graeme and Jo continued up Tower Ridge to the summit encountering
snowy rocks, whilst the others descended to the warmth of the hut. Ken and Nina spent the day climbing on the
Douglas Boulder.
Sunday: Martin, Mike and Marcellus headed for Glen
Nevis to crag leaving Brian, Jo and Anne to ascend Carn Dearg by ledge route
and this onto the summit of the Ben, returning by the abseil posts to Coire
Leis. Graeme, Ken and Nina ascended
North East Buttress after Raeburn’s 18 Minute Route.
22-24
June – BBQ, Far North
Present: Mark (meet sec); Brian; Anne; Tony
K; Tony Bl; Richard; Martin; Bob; Cathy; Simon; Ruth L; Graeme T; Ruth F; Kate;
Nina; Mark; Valerie.
On
Saturday Brian and Anne traversed Suilven starting from Carn Mor, meeting Tony
K who was on Suilven having started from Fionn Loch. Suilven was a popular mountain as Richard, Martin, Bob & Cathy
also completed a traverse of its peaks.
The other popular mountain was Stac Polly with Simon, Graeme T, Ruth F,
and Kate ascending to the summit; while Ruth L and Nina climbed “Party on the
Patio”, and Mark and Valerie climbed “November Groove”.
On
Sunday there was a massed visit to Reiff but the rain sent most people home,
however Brian, Anne and Tony Bl stayed on and were rewarded by sunshine.
13-15
July – Roshven
Present:
Clare (Meet Sec); Neil; Gavin; Brian; Anne; Mark; Nina; Tony K; Steve E.
On
Saturday Brian; Mark; Nina; and Steve headed for the Ardnamurchan peninsula to
climb on Beinn na Seilg above Kilchoan, where they climbed what was believed to
be at least one completely unknown route – Brian and Mark first, then Steve and
Nina as a separate party following the same line. Magic way to celebrate
someone’s 50th birthday – especially since the extreme west coast
got some of the best weather in the country, bathed in sunshine while the rest
of the country got wet!
In
the evening Brian’s 50th birthday was celebrated with a fine cake
complete with a little ice climber and lots and lots of candles, and there were
even distant fireworks laid on to mark the event.
On
Sunday Neil acted as the ferryman, taking the party across the bay by motor
boat to the Ardnish peninsula for a spot of climbing on an unknown and unnamed
triple tier buttress.
Summer 2001 - Italian Alps (Private Trip)
Present: Ruth, Nina and Simon
Piz Bernina
The
plan was to climb it from the Italian side via the Marinelli and Marco e Rosa
Huts, with Simon accompanying the Girls as far as the upper hut. Evening 1 saw
a successful approach to the Marinelli Hut. Day 2 had an early start and
approach across the Scersen Glacier to the rocky promontory beneath the Marco e
Rosa. There followed an attempt on the Couloir until it was decided that it was
not in suitable condition – then moved round to the buttress, but no route
could be found to the cables. By now it was too late and a retreat was made to
the Marinelli.
Day
3 Ruth and Nina had another go, however, the weather had become distinctly
Scottish and started snowing – all other parties on the hill retreated and the
girls persisted trying to force a route onto the buttress to reach the elusive
cables. Simon who was waiting in the hut for the snow to stop before returning
to the valley for some cycling, was beginning to wonder what was happening on
the mountain. The Dutch team had returned, the upper hut had not been reached
(phone connection) and the girls had not been seen for 8 hours. Mid afternoon
the hut guardian set off to have a look – and picked up Simon en-route. As we
had no equipment it was assumed that we were only going as far as the glacier –
but ‘Tonto’ had a novel technique – he just walked out onto the fresh snow and
every now and then put his ear to the surface – sighting for the crevasses
(which we had negotiated in the usual way the previous day). It proved a good
distraction from worrying about the girls – who appeared as we reached the
mid-point of the glacier – returning disappointed having given it a good
workman-like attempt despite the adverse conditions.
That
evening we discovered that the route had changed due to glacial recession –
still it was time to move on.
Gran Paradiso
Via
an interesting ridge variation (PD) to the normal route from the Val Savaranche
valley with a night at the Chabot Hut. The girls were alone on the ridge and
treated to a stunning alpine sunrise, before joining the glacier and then onto
some interesting positions on the rocky summit pinnacles – topped off with a
surreal meeting with the summit Madonna. Simon, having accompanied the girls to
the hut and left them to their successful ascent while having a lie-in and
taking high-level walk round to the next hut.
Cragging
(for a day) with Nico, Furio and Willie.
Nina was then deposited at
Nice airport and during the rest of the trip Simon and Ruth had some hutting in
the Mercantour (Alp Maritime) - Mont Tenibre (3031m), and then an attempted
route in the Ecrins – to be defeated by fresh snow.
21-23
Sept – Strawberry Cottage
Present: Richard (Meet Sec); Brian; Anne;
Steve; Debbie; Bob; Cathy; Tony K; Jo; Peter; and Helen.
Some
of the original Saturday hill walking plans on the Cluanie Hills had to be
changed after a visit from the head stalker, who explained how he made use of
the walkers coming up from the Cluanie side to keep the deer penned into the
corries. So instead, a number of
variations on the theme of An Socach and/or Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan were undertaken.
On
Sunday Anne went up Corbett on the south side of the glen called Carn a’ Choire
Ghairbh. Brian, Tony K and Richard went
up Mam Sodhail and enjoyed spectacular views overlooking a temperature
inversion, before returning to the roadhead along the north side of Loch
Affric. Meanwhile back at the car park
Steve’s car needed AA assistance before they were able to head for home.
12-14
Oct – Inbhirfhaolain, Glen Etive
Present:
Brian S (Meet Sec), Anne M, Pete & Helen I, Tony Bl Richard G, Gordon O
The
Inbhirfhaolain Hut, belonging to the Grampian Club of Dundee has long been a
favourite venue for the club. It is
particularly noteworthy also as having a composting toilet on a wooden platform
at the westerly end of the hut, and sits in a splendid position looking down
Loch Etive towards Ben Starav. All the group arrived on the Friday, apart from
Richard who travelled in on Saturday in his open topped kit car. Due to deer stalking in the areas, there was
some limitation in what was achieved, but the following were summitted: Bidean
nam Bian (GO), Stob Dubh (BS, AM, TB), Beinn Maol Chaluim (BA, RG), Ben Starav
(PI, HI). A sociable Saturday evening
in the hut was accompanied by the sound of roaring stags in the
hills around the hut celebrating the height of the rut.
26-28
Oct – Annual Dinner, Spean Bridge Hotel
Present: Brian, Anne, Tony & Fiona K,
Steve R, Debbie, James, Amanda, Tony Bl, Keith, Richard, Martin, Tony &
Sheila, Hillary & Rona, Simon & Ruth, Mark, Willie, Nina.
After grand extravaganzas
for the previous two years, an administrative failure led to there being no
arrangements for the Annual Dinner as late as September. An emergency effort
led to the booking of the Spean Bridge Hotel, which had been the venue of
successful dinners in the past.
Whether it was due to the
distance or the fact that several regulars were otherwise engaged, a relatively
select band turned up for the annual festivities. Most folk congregated at the
hotel on the Friday night, the exceptions being Tony and Sheila who were
expected from a week’s holiday even further north, and Simon, Ruth, Nina and
Mark- whose absence was explained as follows….
Bivi- special
report from Simon!
To avoid the stigma (and
cost) of spending two nights in a hotel, Simon persuaded Ruth, Graeme T., Mark
and Nina to ascend the grey corries by head-torch and bivi on Stob Coire na
Ceannain. Despite the wind and rain we did not resort to the back-up plan of the
bothy but continued to just below the summit and a wet and noisy night. Hooped
bivi bags meant certain team members were accused of camping. Interesting
phenomena observed – thought to be a rainbow by moonlight.
The following day saw a
completion of the Grey Corries ridge: Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m), Stob Ban
(977m), Stob a Choire Leith (1105m), and Stob Choire an Laoigh (1116m). This
was followed by a welcome return to the car accompanied for some by
skinny-dipping(!) and trellis walking(?).
Everyone
else, who had been woken by the blatter of rain on the cosy hotel’s windows,
generally considered the stigma was worth it!
Saturday
was a dry(ish) but windy day. The lure of 2500’ summits saw Brian and Anne
visiting Meall na Leitreach near Drumochter (where?) and Tony and Fiona
ascending Ben Tee near Invergarry. Other details, sadly, are lacking.
The
evening saw everyone gathered in the bar, where we discovered that we were
sharing the hotel with a party of apprentice ghillies on a training course! After
dinner, the party gathered in the lounge and was treated to a nostalgic slide
show courtesy of the President- a very convivial evening.
Some
folk, at least, managed to get out on Sunday. Tony and Sheila, in search of
more elusive summits, bagged Chno Dearg and Stob Coire Sgriodain, whilst Tony
and Fiona contented themselves with a walk up the Nevis gorge to Steall
Waterfall. Brian and Anne visited Creag Meagaidh and visited two hitherto
untrodden (at least by them) tops.
A
very enjoyable, if rather low key dinner meet; at least it allowed us to gather
strength for the next big one!
16-18
Nov – Aviemore Bunkhouse
Present:
Mark (Meet Sec); Peter & Helen; Simon; Ken; Nina; Valerie
Peter
and Helen arrived at the bunkhouse early and soundly asleep before the others
arrived and had to shout loudly to be let inside.
On
Saturday Peter and Helen climbed Bynack More on glorious calm and sunny
conditions. Mark, Valerie, Simon, Ken,
and Nina climbed Ben Macdui via the Fiacaill Ridge.
14-16
Dec – Christmas Dinner, Muir of Inverey
Present:
James (meet sec, cook, and purser); Pete & Helen; Jo; Mark; Valerie;
Martin; Neil & Clare; Nina; Richard; Rosemary; Hillary; Steve & Debbie;
Tony Bl; Tony K; Fiona M; Brian; Anne; Simon; Tony & Sheila.
There
was the usual good turn out for this ever popular meet and the hut was full to
bursting. So as I loaded up the car with the vitals for the weekend, I had two
passing fears. Firstly that the suspension would hit the end stops, and
secondly that (despite this) I might not have enough food. The first was a real
worry, which should have told me that the second was so unlikely that it was laughable.
This was the biggest turkey I had ever seen. In a crash I would have been
crushed between it and the engine. So loaded up I set out (slowly) for Muir and
my doom.
Friday
night there was the usual press gang for vegetable preparation, and I gave turkey-lurkey
a good stuffing.
On
Saturday the weather however was not playing the game and it was poor
outside. Brian, Simon, Mark, Valerie,
Nina and Jo headed up through the eastern corrie of Lochnagar, stopping at the
loch of the same name to indulge in some posh chocolate before ascending the
north bounding ridge to the summit of Lochnagar. Tony K climbed a hill called Creag Bhalg near to Braemar, while
Peter and Helen started at Invercauld and walked up the Slugain track to Glen
Quoich to and Mar Lodge. There
was also a bit of cycling, the odd hillock, but mainly trips for tea drinking
and gear stroking. All this however
passed me by as I slaved in the sweat shop of Muir's kitchen, sacrificing my
day in order that we could all eat to within an inch of lives later that night.
Despite the sheer madness of letting me near a kitchen, the outcome appeared
satisfactory. And with all fed and watered the traditional trip to see the
Spittal was undertaken.
On
Sunday Brian and Anne ascended Ben Vuirich via a cycle up Glen Brerachan, Simon
and Ruth walked over Carn an Tuirc and Cairn of Claise, while most of the
others paid a visit to ‘Old Jock’, an ancient Scots Pine that can be found on
the slopes above Mar Lodge.
I
could not finish this account with my thanks to all those others who (despite
my implications) also provided food for the weekend, those who chopped, steamed
and washed up in the name of gluttony.