Journal 2000
New Year Meet, Aviemore, 28 December 1999 - 2 January 2000
Present: Gus M (owner!), Nina T (28/2), Jo L (28/29 & 1/2), Val L (28/29), Terry C (28/29), Andy R (1/2), James R (30/2), Willie J (29/30), Fiona & Calum M (1/2), Justin R (30/1), Emma and Dean (26/2), Brian S (1/2)
28 December
A few people started arriving at Gus M’s house in Aviemore. He had kindly offered his home to the club over the festive period. Weather and snow conditions were superb at this point with Emma and Dean raving about wonderful ski and snowboarding conditions. Gus upset as an injured leg was preventing any fun in the snow!
29 December
Val & Jo headed up to the ski car park and set-off on what was supposed to be an attempt to get onto Ben Macdui which actually resulted in a magic day of bum sliding and ice axe training! The snow in places was really deep making going difficult, and caused lots of squeals from Val when deep patches of snow suddenly became burns! After lots of play, the winds got up and the cloud dropped so they decided that, as good fun had been had, it was best to get out while the going was good! Independently, Terry decided to set off from the Hotel just before Coylumbridge up Gleann Einich. Although a pick-up point and time had been arranged prior to dropping Terry off, a couple of hours passed the due time he turned up at Gus’ place. In the meantime Val & Jo waited and waited and waited at the Hotel (fuelled by hot chocolates in the bar!) becoming increasingly more worried, before being rescued by Gus & Nina’s arrival and news of his whereabouts!?! Differences in interpretation of where ‘at the hotel’ was ……..! Emma was now wiped out by the ‘flu and Dean, very touchingly, stays to nurse her, so Nina heads out for a day on the Tele skis and new plastic Tele boots on her own. Unlike her debut in the self-same boots at the end of the previous year with Brian S and Gus, she manages to stay upright for over 10 seconds at a time and is elated to perform her first proper Tele turns! Willie J arrived during the evening ready to hit the ice and snow after being encouraged by today’s stories. Low temperatures and stacks of soft fresh snow look promising, and everyone prays for thaw/freeze.
30 December
Yet another attempt of Jo’s to try out this ice-climbing malarkey was thwarted by high winds, low cloud and generally horrible conditions (and high temperatures as it was now raining on top of the snow) bringing high avalanche risk with all the soft, fresh snow…!! After a horrendous cup of brown looking dishwater flavoured tea at the top car park, we decided to call it a day (at 9.30!), and headed down to join Val & Terry who were heading to do a forest walk behind Glenmore Lodge. I have a mental image of Val in plastic boots (but dry feet!), and Terry walking with a brolly! We met some from the Scottish Ski Club who were also a little fed up with the sudden change in conditions. Val, Terry and Jo headed back to Edinburgh this evening in readiness for Hogmanay celebrations on Prince’s Street.
31 December
Justin arrived early afternoon having battled through a stormy Drumochter. Poor weather again prevented all from doing anything exciting. With the ski area only partially open due to hurricanes, most people opt for forest walks and cups (barrel-fulls?!) of hot chocolate in Caf� Mamba. Preparations began for the BBQ in Gus’ expansive garage, to which everyone in town appeared to have been invited. Despite constant assurances by Gus’ that there was more than enough beer (in the 10 trays or so of cans and bottles!) people still brought more with them! The spread was fit for a king with salads, burgers, nuts, bread, dips, rolls, and of course an enormous pile of burgers (which Dean set about breaking a world record for ‘burning the most burgers in one sitting’). The party was underway upstairs with Justin as DJ at the Bells - soon everyone has kissed everyone and we were ensnared in a spider’s web of streamers!!! Gus’ next door neighbour puts on a fireworks display, although staying outside in the not so welcoming weather was a bit of an endurance test! Nina’s Dad (among many other locals and Aviemore regulars) arrived to First Foot. By about 3am or so Mr T finds himself in a very heated discussion with a very articulate lawyer from Glasgow, the main ingredient being far too much whisky consumed by both parties - he got home at 7am to stern disapproval from both wife and daughter!
1 January
Activities were mainly restricted to yet more forest walks (fortunately there are lots nearby to stave off cabin fever as the winds refused to drop below tornado level), and so began the first raid on Gus’ video collection. Nina and Justin had dinner at Nina’s Dad and Step-Mum’s, whereupon they were shown up by the older generation who go off to the Kincraig dance while Nina and Justin retreat to Gus’ house again to join in the telly watching and get an early night. They got back to find that Willie had left in disgust due to the not-forthcoming climbing conditions as high winds had stripped the hills bare of snow and render moving around in the hills near impossible. Jo & Andy R arrived late evening after a very successful Hogmanay in Edinburgh. This also marked the beginning of the two-day indoors Oxbridge championship (Andy, Cambridge and James, Oxford) - the overall result being Cambridge trounced Oxford 7-2 in backgammon, chess, scrabble and go-karting! Calum & Fiona arrived this evening via the Lairig Ghru and through the Calmain gap. Brian also arrived today leaving a ‘flu suffering Anne.
2 January
Calum & Fiona set out earlyish - everything is relative! - and walked into Bynack stables after having a sauna and swim. About midday, Brian, Nina & Jo headed up Bynack More, the first ‘bag’ of the year for the FMC. It was also the first be-torching of the year!?!?! It was a typical don’t-go-out-with-Brian-without-a-head-torch kind of day … The choice of Bynack More was chosen due to its sheltered position from the south-south-westerly winds, but its was still bitterly cold in the wind. First sortie of the crampons on lovely crisp ice, even if Jo decided that one and a half crampons was plenty……!?!
3 January
Everyone who hadn’t headed back to Edinburgh by this stage did so today, with many thanks and more to Gus M for letting us have run of his home for the week.
Nina T
Burns Supper Meet, Loch Ossian Youth Hostel, 7-9 January 2000
Present: Jo L, Josie C, Laubie L, Rob & Martha W, Fiona & Calum M, James R, Nina T, Andy R, Verity C, Keith C, Gordon O, Katherine G, Pete & Helen I, Roger S, Tony K
Friday night
Worries that this meet would be under subscribed because of its’ proximity to Christmas were soon shelved (a second meet a couple of weeks later to Loch Ossian was equally full!!). Many difficulties were encountered trying to organise group train discount from Bridge of Orchy to Corrour - Keith now has ScotRail training notes if anyone wants to know how to get group discounts from unmanned stations in the future! Fellow passengers looked a tad concerned as Jo wandered up and down the train handing out kilos of haggis, neeps, and tatties to club members! A young German guy (Tomas) and his wife now run the Youth Hostel (about a mile walk from the station) - pleasant enough, but a bit officious with all monies being sorted on arrival together with a group rule reading session (including No Feeding Ze Deer).
Saturday
Threatening skies curtailed planning operations for anything too adventurous and epic, so a couple of groups, keen to get out and to do something, headed onto the windswept slopes of Beinn na Lap. Ski goggles would have been a useful commodity at the summit (those with spares would have made serious money from those lacking!)! A good stomp though, and a great cobweb clearer after the excesses of Christmas and New Year. A couple of people headed up in the direction of Carn Dearg, some went for a walk around the Loch, whilst others chose to stay behind guard the hut and the evening’s food supplies. Roger (friend of Pete and Helen) attempted the famous ‘round the Loch in under an hour’ run but unfortunately was beaten by the strong winds and soggy conditions underfoot. A Germanising of the ‘round the Loch’ rules, meant that if he had been successful his efforts may well have gone unrecognised as Tomas “hadn’t been there to start his clock …….. " - so be warned those of you who plan to do it in the future!
Saturday night was a night of feasting and gluttony. Everyone did their bit; in one corner tatties were being peeled by the bucket-load, in another was the commercial preparation of neeps. Haggi were lovingly wrapped in cooking foil before being placed tenderly in the oven. Scotch Broth was served to start. Humungoid quantities of haggis, neeps, and tatties followed as the main course (no worries about running out this year!). The Presidenta, not being Scottish, delegated the traditional reading of the ‘Ode to a Haggis’ to a native, which Calum carried out with great pride and gusto! Desert (not wanted judging by the groans when it was announced, but certainly not rejected judging by the clean plates that were returned!) was apple and cherry pies, with custard. The food was washed down by healthy quantities of wine, whisky and Tia Maria (courtesy of Andy & Verity!). Everyone was too stuffed to move after such mass consumption, but happily took part in a game of Christmas taboo, also produced by Verity - bit of cupboard clearing me thinks!
Sunday
Snow overnight. Magical Winter Wonderland. Jo headed off on a solo navigational trip up Sgor Gaibhre (at the eastern end of Loch Ossian) before heading west to Carn Dearg and back to the Youth Hostel. Rob, Martha and Tony climbed the same hills but in the opposite direction! Calum, Fiona, Nina, Josie, Laubie and others headed across the railway lines and up the horseshoe shaped hill opposite the station (Leum Uilleim and Beinn A’Bhric). After initial low cloud the skies cleared affording magnificent views to all cardinal points.
Back in the hostel, late afternoon tea was drunk and the leftovers of the previous nights’ feast was fried up and scoffed. However, worries began to increase as the hut was cleaned and tidied and time was marching towards departure (only one train in the evening on a Sunday) with three people still out on the hill. We’d packed their rucksacs in preparation, and almost as late as they could have left it, they finally arrived back - one way of getting out of the cleaning!!!
Back in Bridge of Orchy, whilst some headed to the Hotel for tea, some of us were doing battle trying to get the yellow peril started. The battery was so, so, SO flat that even the Ilieve beastmobile had problems jump-starting it!
A highly successful meet in a very popular venue. By complete fluke a cancellation by another club a couple of weeks later allows the club a rare second opportunity to get to Loch Ossian, which again was filled to capacity (with only four returns!).
JL
A Day in the Cairngorms, Winter 2000
It was our second visit of the season to Coire an Sneachda and we had not allowed ourselves to be put off by the forecast - which was for a cold northerly wind (40 plus mph) and snow showers, heaviest in the morning. The cloud started just above the car park, and there was fresh snow in the corrie. Once the corrie floor flattened out we must have started drifting to the right, soon we came up against a face that seemed unfamiliar. Hard to tell given the poor visibility which only let you peer maybe a rope length into the gloaming. Some belated compass work convinced us we were up against the wall of the Feachal ridge, and after correcting that error we soon arrived below the Trident gullies. There were several large groups (unmistakably from the Lodge) and a few smaller parties about. Up above, in the snow bay, we could just make out the tail-end of a party trending off left and dissolving into the cloud. The usual (for me) pre-climb anxiety started to cut in and we geared up quickly, hoping we were not going to have to queue for our route, the central of the three Trident gullies. Cramponing up the steep approach we passed a couple of parties traversing across (lord knows what they were up to) and we were approached by another that wanted to know if they were on Aladdin’s – they were as far out as their last informants. I was fairly sure of where we were, but was thinking of asking the team that was disappearing into the right hand Trident fork. I decide not to, and wait till we got closer rather than disturb the relative peace by shouting. In the end they had disappeared by the time I got a nut in the rocky promontory that separates the two gullies. Ruth stopped about 8m down and belayed off a dead-man, just before the final steepening of the slope and the start of the climbing. I was about 20m further on putting in a runner on the left hand wall when I heard something fall, like an avalanche. I looked round and saw something dark slide down the fall line just behind Ruth - Ice from the other team I presumed. I even remember thinking “can’t be helped in winter and at least it missed her”. I had however got it all wrong - It was not their jetsam but the other team that was falling with eerie silence past Ruth. Focussed as I was on getting my runner in I was a little slow in realising what had happened. Ruth had witnessed them passing a few feet away, and was calling out to find out what had happened below. There seemed to be plenty of people about at the bottom, though from her stance she could only see a team starting off up Central Gully. Ruth had seen one of unlucky pair loose his glasses and became fixated on finding them. After all if he was dusting himself off below he might want them. Moving down as far as the free rope allowed (after I’d made myself safe) she found an Axe but no glasses, and passed them onto someone who was heading down. After some debate we decided to continue. Although we both had first aid training we were sure the groups below contained Glenmore Lodge instructors, and as somebody shouted from below, too many cooks… Besides which I was committed to the route and it would have taken us a while to downclimb. In other circumstances - without the crowds we’d have been down as fast as safety permitted. The climb certainly had added atmosphere after what we had witnessed, especially for Ruth who had had a near-miss - being hit by a falling winter-mountaineer with all the metal-wear would be very dangerous in itself. We swapped leads and took things very steadily, making great care of the belays- though with the run-outs usual in winter. The snow was in pretty good condition - with some ice and a bit of surface crud.The third pitch was accompanied by the thumping of a helicopter, and we hoped for the best for the two. I was amazed the helicopter had managed to get in given the wind and the visibility, the pilots clearly deserve every accolade. Towards the top the gully was really channeling the wind - the hoarfrost in the exit chimney faced out and down. I had to find my goggles to look down and belay Ruth to the final stance. Two parties caught us up as Ruth led on through the crux, over the banked up snow and out of site onto the plateau. I could not help but wonder at one of the belays - he was clearly a competent climber but I would not want to have brought up a tiring second with only the picks of my axes providing a belay, at least not in that snow. Strangely the plateau where we exited was quieter than the gully and we managed a couple of rather late sandwiches as we packed away - and just as we were about to set off Ken, Ashley and their visitor from Montana wandered past. We joined them for some company back to the car park, the weather was a bit rougher once we got out of the lull, Howard had just had his first day out in Scotland (a grade IV butress) and found the experience (especially the conditions) thoroughly hardcore. Retiring to the Lodge for a bar meal and some company before the drive back to Edinburgh, the conversation kept returning to the misfortunate party. Before departing I went to ask the staff, and was at first given a bland answer. On explaining why we were concerned they opened up and gave us a better idea of what had happened below us in the cloud. They were found almost immediately by a very experienced instructor and got the best attention that could be imagined. The rescue box was close by and a Helicopter was called up. One had very bad injuries, the other a broken ankle. The helicopter took the worse injured one, but he was dead when he arrived at the hospital, the other was stretchered out. Their fates were so different you could only be left with the feeling of the arbitrariness of outcomes and “there but for the grace of god go I” The only things we can directly learn from the incident are care in choosing belay sites, the danger of following up a gully in winter, and the need for good belays - which are not always easy to come by in winter. What actually happened we can only speculate - Ruth thought there was not much rope between them, maybe one had just left a belay when he fell and pulled off the belayer. An alternative that occurred to me later was that they might have been moving together on grade I/II ground to reach the start of a grade V ridge. Either way they were playing the game according to accepted rules, and their fate just left one saddened and sober. It was a long drive back home to Edinburgh.
SL
Raeburn Hut, Laggan, 11-13 February 2000
Present: Valerie C & Mark L (Thurs, Fri, Sat), Jo L, Kerry P, Nina T, Pete & Helen I, Jennifer M, Laubie L, Fiona & Calum M, Gordon C, Sam O, Jackie, Yenz, Brian S, Simon L (Friday only)
Friday
Beautiful conditions beckoned Mark and Valerie out to a spectacular day with Alladin’s Mirror in perfect condition and clear skies. Unfortunately an enormous block of ice tested Valerie’s helmet to its limits and another piece deadened one leg ….. By the time the rest of the team arrived a concerned clucking Mark had ushered her back to the safety of the hut to recuperate. Sadly she declared herself unfit for climbing on Saturday.
Saturday
Jo, Kerry, Jennifer & Gordon headed off in Nina’s rather sick white beast to Meall Chuaich to the east of the A9 (after stalling the car on numerous occasions). The walking was good, a fair amount of snow underfoot, the conditions were really pleasant. Unfortunately no amount of persuasion was going to convince Jennifer that we were happy to maintain our gentle pace and she decided part way up the final ascent that she would wait for us back on the main track. The drive back to the hut (fewer stallings!) was magic. We drove along a little lane through the Mains of Glentrium that no-one had used that day. The snow on the road was crisp with trees bending over the road, as if bowing, under the weight of the snow on the boughs.
Brian, Simon, Laubie, Mark and Nina headed up into Coire an-t-Sneachda in search of snow and ice …… no lack of snow, but a worrying lack of ice! Nina struggled bravely (but unsuccessfully) to keep apace with the race going on between her party and the other parties heading the same way as people worried about all the good routes being taken … On reaching the bottom a rushed food stop and donning of all the clothes that could be mustered took place with the Cairngorm weather taking no prisoners as usual. Mark and Laubie headed off up some scary Grade V (going on VI with the lack of ice!!!), the name of which has been forgotten. Brian, Simon and Nina headed for Broken Gully and people took turns to nearly freeze to death as other people attempted to scale the normally Grade III which had NO ICE AT ALL in it (or so it seemed). Certainly safety was no issue since the complete lack of ice meant that once the powdery snow was removed all the little cracks were exposed for summer rock placements … The frozen trio then popped up through a narrow gap at the top just in time to see the sun going down and start the kind of hauntingly beautiful moonlight descent that one gets to expect when spending lots of days on the hill with Mr. S. After a quick mobile call to Ruth to let her know her husband was safe and well and about to drive down to attempt to join the end of the dinner party he was supposed to be at?! - he arrived about midnight I believe! Brian and Nina joined Mark and Laubie for those wonderful hot chocolates in Caf� Mamba’s and heard tales of crucifixion (ice axe placements stretching arms out either side with feet swinging in mid air!) and a similar story of trying to scale vertical slopes standing on, …well…, puffs of powder.
Sunday
With a number of ice-climbers Jo & Kerry headed up to Aviemore and the Cairngorms. They went up the ridge to the west of Coire an Lochan, by the side of Lurchers’ Gully and skirted round the Northern Corries above the climbing and from there up onto Cairngorm.
Brian, Nina, Laubie, Mark and Valerie (sore leg but not letting THAT get in her way!) performed a mass ascent of the Fiacall Ridge with Valerie leading the way forcing all to stick to the tricky bits (as opposed to avoiding them as can be so tempting!!!). Nina ran out of steam completely after too much activity the previous day and had to relinquish the lead for her little trio to Brian’s seemingly endless energy - only to discover she was only a few metres from the top anyway.
Nina T
Lagangarbh, Glen Coe, 25-27 February 2000
Attendees: Steve R, Graeme M, Josie, Simon, Ruth, Laubie, Mark, Nina, Ken
On the Saturday Simon reports that: Steve R, Graham M, Josie and Simon went up Udlahamain (the SW’most of the glencoe munroes). Windy from the SW so decided to do it in reverse - walk up the valley and get blown back along the ridge. A good plan - we past other parties struggling doing it the book way. Great snow conditions on the top - made one wish one had opted for a climb. All in all a good day on the hill and much better than forcast.
Mark and Laubie headed off for a look at Raven’s gully - a classic Glencoe grade V. After having a look (it was bare!) we headed up to D-Gully buttress and had an enjoyable wee excursion closely followed by Ken and Nina. Snow conditions were marginal but devious route finding enabled the odd entertaining section to be attacked. We probably summited and it was probably very dodgy going up the usual avalanche slopes above curved ridge.
Ruth buried her head in a french book all day with an empending exam…
[Editor notes that the work paid off, and she passed with flying colours]
The usual saturday evening’s entertainment in front of the fire was followed by some unappealling weather on the sunday and an early bath.
Ardbrecknish House, Loch Awe, 10-12 March 2000
Present: Peter F, Jo L, Josie C, Tony K, James R, Tony B, Steve R, Debbie K, Cormac R, Andy R, Verity C, Fiona & Calum M, Pete & Helen I
The weather over the whole weekend was pretty wet and windy so this place was a lucky find on the accommodation front. Slightly more expensive than the club is used to, but the club had its own apartment with 5 bedrooms, lounge, kitchen and two bathrooms, with a bar downstairs equipped with snooker table and other large pub games.
Saturday
Andy, Verity, Steve and James lopped up ‘some hill above the hydro project’ - Ben Cruachan. James and Steve had the energy to summit both hills whilst V1 and Andy just loafed around after just one. However, this latter pair had assumed that James and Steve would be behind them as they’d only done half the walk, so they stopped and waited for them for AGES on the way down the hill watching the two orange blobs (James and Steve) descending higher up. Eventually they got bored of waiting and tootled down to the car, only to find James and Steve bored of waiting for us! Opps! Calum, Fiona, the two Tony’s, Peter F, Jo and Josie went up Beinn a’Chochuill and Beinn Eunaich - and used the compass to try and determine the degree of the steepness of the slope (c.45o!?!). Pete and Helen both went up Ben Ime and Ben Narnian as Helen was in bagging mode again! It being such a wet day, there resulted fierce competition for the bathrooms on everyone’s return. Mr B promptly thwarted Helen’s sense of community to conserve hot water (by bathing in an inch of water) by using all the hot water in his ‘pool’. Josie and Jo escaped downstairs to Steve and Debbie’s apartment to freshen up! Andy and James made good use of the bar facilities both alcoholic and ‘sporting’ until 2am!
Sunday
Another very wet day which quelled much enthusiasm to do much! On the map Steve, Debbie, Jo and Josie sourced what should have been a nice pleasant forest walk taking us to a viewpoint with a monument. In reality the path on the map was now a road so they ended up parking the car within sight of the viewpoint, and had a 3-minute stroll to the ‘summit’ (leaving a peacefully sleeping Cormac in the car!). Tony and James, planning on investigating a bit more of the south side of Loch Awe inadvertently drove all the way around it! Edinburgh was returned to by early afternoon.
JL
Ling Hut, Torridon, 24-26 March 2000
Present: Valerie C, Peter & Helen I, Joanna L, Mark L, Calum & Fiona M, Anne M, Graeme M, Brian S, and Nina T
This meet was notable for the prodigious number of bananas consumed. Wherever one looked, on the hill or in the hut, somebody was peeling or eating one. Gaelic lacks a word for “banana”, and the sight would have astonished the indigenous folk of Ross-shire, whose staple was a handful of oatmeal. It is however a nutritious fruit, and nicely packaged for the rucsac.
The Ilieves and Macks reached the hut early, in time to enjoy a seat in the sun. Later came Anne’s carload, who had stopped at Ralia for a banana and at Dingwall for chips; closely followed by Mark, Val and La Presidenta. The ladies, mirabile dictur, formed the majority.
At 6 am a cacophony of alarm clocks shattered Saturday’s early calm. Cereal and sliced banana typified the breakfast fare, fuelling muscles that were soon to be sorely tried. Outside, it was clear and bright, with Liathach and Beinn Eighe a grand sight, though snowy only at their crests.
Mark, Val, Brian, Nina and Graeme took the path between Liathach and Beinn Eighe. Weighed down with climbing gear, including the monstrous aluminium “snow stakes” favoured by the Club’s ultramontane tendency, they stripped almost at once to shirt-sleeves in the hot sun. Having climbed the previous winter on the north side of Liathach, in various combinations, all were eager to revisit its splendid corries. Today however no ice could be discerned in the north-east corrie of Spidean a’Choire Leith, so the party continued into Coire na Caime, where Twisting Gully caught the eye. Though much thawed and therefore discontinuous, this gave a sporting 600-foot ascent to the main ridge, including a short ice pitch that Mark and then Nina led in fine style with their banana picks. A ridge walk over the main summit of Liathach completed an enjoyable outing.
Meanwhile Calum, Fiona and Jo had been afoot on the same mountain, traversing it from east to west over Spidean a’Choire Leith and Mullach nan Rathain. Conditions were awkward on the ridge, with loose snow masking the quartzite blocks underfoot. Every step was like treading on a banana skin, yet crampons were balling too much to be wearable.
Beinn Damph, which must rank among the best viewpoints in the Highlands, was Anne’s achievement for the day: a very creditable performance for someone recovering from a broken leg. Equally stoical was Helen, who overcame her fear of the celebrated Horns of Alligin and joined Peter in an east-to-west traverse of the mountain.
A convivial evening was spent in the hut, where the customary excess of food was eaten. Many thanks to the Aldie altruists, for not only carrying in a case of stout but also sharing it generously. Loosened by these libations, the conversation ranged bizarrely: vermin, defecation in swimming baths, pregnancy, the Boat Race*, animal husbandry, bananas, Colonel Glover, holidays in Cumbernauld - altogether quite an essay in free association.
Apart from the odd sharp shower, Sunday was another fine day. Anne and Helen enjoyed a coastal walk, with goldeneye ducks providing ornithological interest. Meanwhile Calum went fishing, Pete and Jo climbed Beinn Damph, and the other six traversed Beinn Alligin.
After a final cup of tea and banana, most of the party set off for Edinburgh in the early evening, shamelessly leaving Peter and Helen to tidy the hut before their own departure next morning.
Graeme M
* Dark Blues won that day by three lengths.
Clyde Booze Cruise - The Truth, 20-27 May 2000
The Vessel: Highland Rhapsody (Leith), Dufour 32 Classic
The Crew: Tony B, Verity C, Peter F, Tony K, James R, Andy R
The Voyage
| Date | Voyage | Logged Distance (nm) | Duration (hours) | Average Speed (knots) | Maximum Speed (knots) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20 May 2000 | Rhu - Rothesay | 14.0 | 3.50 | 4.00 | |
| 21 May 2000 | Rothesay - Tarbert via Kyles of Bute | 34.1 | 8.75 | 3.90 | 5.3 |
| 22 May 2000 | Tarbert - Loch Ranza | 13.8 | 3.20 | 4.31 | 5.9 |
| 23 May 2000 | Loch Ranza - Campbeltown | 30.1 | 5.00 | 6.02 | 7.9 |
| 24 May 2000 | Campbeltown - Ailsa Craig | 23.2 | 4.60 | 5.04 | 6.7 |
| Ailsa Craig - Girvan | 9.4 | 2.75 | 3.42 | ||
| 25 May 2000 | Girvan - Lamlash | 23.6 | 4.40 | 5.36 | |
| Lamlash - Troon | 15.0 | 2.75 | 5.45 | 4.9 | |
| 26 May 2000 | Troon - Lamlash Bay (Holy Island) | 17.0 | 4.50 | 3.78 | |
| Lamlash Bay (Holy Island) - Millport | 16.0 | 3.33 | 4.80 | 6.5 | |
| 27 May 2000 | Millport - Rhu | 22.0 | 4.50 | 4.89 | 6.3 |
| TOTALS | 218.2 | 47.28 | 4.62 |
The Statistics
| What | How Much |
|---|---|
| Total distance under sail | 200 nautical miles |
| Total distance under power | 18 nautical miles |
| Maximum wind speed under sail | 25 knots (BF 6) |
| Maximum speed under sail | 7.9 knots |
| Highest average speed | Loch Ranza - Campbeltown 6.02 knots |
| Longest voyage | Loch Ranza - Campbeltown 30.1 nm |
| Longest day’s sailing | Girvan - Lamlash - Troon 38.6 nm |
| Night sail (from sunset) | 1.75 hours, 7 nm up Hunterston Channel to Millport |
| Maximum wind force (moored) | 41 knots (BF 8) in Loch Ranza |
The Ports
| Date | Port | Berth | Fee | Meal |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20 May 2000 | Rothesay | Mooring Buoy | £4.20 | On board |
| 21 May 2000 | Tarbert | Pontoon | £12.20 | Victoria Hotel (excellent) |
| 22 May 2000 | Loch Ranza | Mooring Buoy | - | On board |
| 23 May 2000 | Campbeltown | Pontoon | £12.50 | Ardshiel Hotel (showers, excellent) |
| 24 May 2000 | Girvan | Pontoon | - | Southfield Hotel |
| 25 May 2000 | Troon | Pontoon | £16.18 | Anchorage Hotel |
| 26 May 2000 | Millport | Rafted | - | On board |
Major Events or Achievements
| When | Where | What |
|---|---|---|
| 20-May 19:30 | Rothesay | Observed H.M.S. Sheffield, Type 22 batch 2 frigate, at anchor. |
| 20-May 21:00 | Rothesay | Lowered ensign at sunset (not to be outdone). |
| 21-May 11:45 | off Bute | Diving accident near Millport reported over VHF, unable to assist. |
| 21-May 14:30 | Burnt Islands | Motor required to negotiate channel against head wind. |
| 22-May 10:15 | Tarbert | Skipper, Tony K and Verity consumed large breakfast in Tarbert Hotel (kippers &c.). |
| 22-May 15:00 | Loch Ranza | Crew landed. Verity, Andy, James had round of golf, Peter and Tonys x2 climbed Meall Mhor (1610 ft.). |
| 23-May 05:30 | Loch Ranza | Tony K got up to check moorings during gale. Wind gusting over 37 knots. |
| 23-May 09:00 | Loch Ranza | Wind gusting over 40 knots. |
| 23-May 12:20 | Loch Ranza | Skipper performed (controlled) 360-degree pirouette. |
| 23-May 15:05 | Kilbrannan Sound | James achieved 7.9 knots. |
| 23-May 17:00 | Campbeltown Loch | Made harbour against very strong headwind. Seas breaking over spit between Island Davaar and mainland. |
| 24-May 12:30 | nr. Ailsa Craig | James was seasick. |
| 24-May 13:30 | Ailsa Craig | Anchored just west of old pier for lunch. Seals and gannets much in evidence. |
| 24-May 15:00 | nr. Ailsa Craig | Skipper was seasick (waste of apple pie). |
| 24-May 15:00 | mid channel | Seal sighted in open sea. |
| 24-May 21:00 | Girvan | Verity and Tony K jumped ship. |
| 25-May 09:00 | nr. Girvan | Man Overboard drill … killed the man overboard. |
| 25-May 15:00 | Lamlash Bay | Andy dramatically swam to rescue dinghy! |
| 25-May 18:15 | Troon | James failed to fall in off pontoon. |
| 25-May 18:15 | Troon | Tony K returned with Leith Claret. |
| 26-May 15:00 | Holy Island | Peter, Tonys x2 landed and climbed Mullach Mhor (1030 ft.) by west face above St. Molas’ Cave. Steep and defended by angry seagulls! |
| 26-May 20:30 | Firth of Clyde | Parhelion or Mock Sun observed over Arran. |
| 26-May 21:31 | Firth of Clyde | Sunset and commenced night sailing for 1 hr 45 mins. |
| 26-May 23:00 | off Millport | Picked up leading lights and entered harbour. |
| 27-May 06:00 | River Clyde | Observed Trident nuclear submarine heading north to Loch Long. |
Naismith Hut, Elphin, 19-22 May 2000
Present: Nina T, Josie C, Jo L, Pete & Helen I, Fiona & Calum M
A wonderful new SMC hut, certainly a contrast to the Spelaeological Hut that the club’s stayed in previously. Very typically SMC with pine everywhere!
Saturday
Party on the Patio. Where do people get the names for some of these climbs! Nina and Jo headed off to Stac Polliadh and did just that, although it didn’t seem like much of a party at the time. But the sense of achievement was definitely euphoric. A four pitch climb which had moments of both complete terror and huge grins! The mixed bag of emotions seemed to coincide with the passing rain showers. Nina lead, they succeeded, they partied on the summit. Where was the patio, or were Jo’s my eyes closed at that fundamental moment!?!
The rest of the FMC headed off in two parties: Calum, Fiona and Josie; Pete & Helen. In separate groups they yomped up the two hills accessed from Inchnadamph (Conival and Ben More Assynt). Pete and Helen headed up Conival and onto Ben More Assynt over its south top before heading directly down from there and back through a little gap just south of Conival. Although on the same hills, neither team spotted the other - the wonders of the wilderness!
Sunday
Word was now out that Josie and Laubie were due to get married in June. Nina and Jo had thought that a Colin Prior panoramic photograph of the Inverpolly region would be a fantastic present for them from the FMC. Laubie had been to the region previously, but this was Josie’s first visit, so it was for Jo and Nina to get her up Suilven, the most distinctively shaped mountain in said print ….. And we managed it, without giving the game away! A fantastic hill. The ’team’ (Jo, Josie, Nina and Pete) was dropped off by Helen near Glencanisp Lodge by Lochinver. We headed along the path until level with the low point (the saddle or Bealach Mor) of Suilven. From the bealach we headed north to the higher top (Caisteal Liath) before heading south to the lower top (Meall Meadhonach) after which we followed the ridge off the end (a bit hair-raising in places with Jo bum shuffling at one stage!?!) and onto the path again. Nina had left her car at the end of the walk, a welcome sight after the best part of 20km of walking and being able to see Elphin from across the loch for what seemed like hours!! The car had a flat tyre, but we only had 2km to drive and were too tired to be concerned! Helen, after dropping the ’team’ off, went to go to Handa to try and do some bird watching. Unfortunately she found the ferry over to the island was closed so ended up pottering around up there. Fiona & Calum had to head back slowly to Edinburgh as they didn’t have the Monday off work.
Monday
Pete & Helen headed back down the road soon after we’d cleared up the hut. Jo, Josie and Nina headed over to Reiff for a morning of climbing. Well, Jo and Nina did a little climbing, as Josie was understandably sore after two big days on the hill. She sat out in the sun (with wholly hat and gloves on!) and read. Nina and Jo managed a couple of routes, but the tide was high making access to some of the easier climbs (for Jo!) a tad too difficult - so lunch was had before a retreat to Edinburgh.
JL
BBQ Camping, Achmelvich, 23-25 June 2000
Present: Jo L, Valerie C, Mark L, Steve E, James R, Robert F (plus mashed car radiator sporting bits of two deer), Fiona F, Jamie F, Emma F, Victoria F, Andy R, Verity C, Katherine G & Stuart, Paul J & Elizabeth (+ 2), Andrew H, Maureen B, Lorraine B, Karyn B, Steve R, Debbie K, Cormac R, Lewis R (5wks), Neil W, Clare W, Gavin W, Tony K, Fiona K, Catriona K, Elspeth K, Brian S, Anne M, Simon & Ruth L
Saturday
The morning was wet - oh that does make a change for a Midsummer Meet at Achmelvich!!!!! The misty rain was horizontal early in the morning, which Cormac was not happy with as it disrupted his football skills practice. By lunch the rain had eased off, but a trip to the coffee shop in Lochinver was being banded about as an activity option.
Brian, Anne, and Jo, having spent hours the previous year in said coffee shop decided to break from many of the rest of the group and headed out to the Point of Stoer. Ruth and Simon who had cycled from the campsite joined them for lunch at the summit Sidhean Mór (161m). The small group walked along the cliff top, whilst Brian entertained them with heroic tales of the day he climbed the stack, the Old Man of Stoer. The enormity of these achievements were absorbed by all whilst watching the sea birds playing (or trying to land) in the updraughts on the cliff sides.
Ruth and Simon headed back to the campsite to use some more of the toys they’d brought. Jo, Brian and Anne investigated the lighthouse before heading back to discover Ruth and Simon respectively windsurfing and snorkelling, and Cormac and Gavin dicing with death (parental not drowning) as they got yet another set of clothes wet!!
The BBQ was a huge success, as rain didn’t stop play for a change. Mark juxtaposed style of dressing in shades, shorts and waterproof jacket was memorable though, was the initiation of the V-club (V1, Verity; V2, Valerie; V3, Victoria). Much food was eaten, and alcoholic beverages consumed. Jamie was in top form with his Dad’s whisky; Steve E, again, took on the role of chief child entertainer; and H supplied a large quantity of beer to all those interested in his and Maureen’s caravan.
Sunday
A fine morning. After the compulsory early morning swim (which only Mark and Valerie partook in this year!) most people headed out to Reiff for a spot of climbing. The Fairlie’s started on their journey home only to end up calling out AA HomeStart part the way down the road!?! Darn deer! Jo lead a climb with Verity (V1) seconding - okay so it was an easy climb but it didn’t really need Brian to promptly solo it afterwards to prove the point!!!!
JL
Camping - Resipole, Ardgour, 14-16 July 2000
Present: Jo L, Nina T, Mark L, Andy R, Verity C, Brian S, Anne M, Ruth & Simon L, Rob & Martha W
Saturday: Rob and Martha went off to Glen Finnan for a bit of ticking. The rest went up Garbh Bheinn, via the Glen (rather than the Directissima that some people do from the road straight up to the Coll!). It was a wonderful hot day with magic clear skies. Not long into the walk Mark, Andy and Ruth had stripped down to swimming togs and were ‘rafting’ (on bits of karrimat!) down the river. The rest of us just looked on in awe (the water was FREEZING!!!). The walk taking them to the base of the climbs they were equipped for took them over burns, and through boulders and patches of blaeberry much to Andy’s taste-bud joy! After lunch Andy, Verity and Jo headed off to find the bottom of the route - Great Ridge (Diff). After a couple of hours (or so it seemed!!!) they were ready to consider climbing, there being much controversy about the best way to get to the bottom of Great Ridge without killing yourself on something much trickier! Consensus seems that Andy’s way was quite good! Brian and Anne did the same route but got to the bottom via some slippery, mossy, slimy wriggle over slabs that are not fit for human ascent…. And boy, what a thrill! Verity and Jo were accused at one point of sounding like a pair of chattering fisherwomen: Andy wouldn’t believe that the chatter had actually been advice and encouragement! On making good time on the climb, Andy suggested Jo lead a pitch, which she did just as the climb leveled out for the summit …….. hhmmmmmm another time! The trio met Anne and Brian on the same summit with whom, after a photo session, they headed down to the col to meet up with Mark, Nina, Ruth & Simon. Simon and Ruth went off to explore a lesser known Severe over on the crag on the other side of the Glen from Great Ridge. There was a walk to the bottom but they reported some exciting challenges with Ruth taking on the brunt of it with a “goey” move up an exposed slab. There were about 2 pitches or so of Severe climbing involved with lots of easier climbing to reach the bottom and get off the top. Nina and Mark took on Scimitar’s first two pitches and joined these into Excaliber on the upper tier. Everyone was very happy and relaxed until, just as Mark set out on Excaliber’s ultra-ultra exposed traverse on the 2nd pitch (there must be at least 10,000ft of air under that ledge without hand or foot holds?!), one of our neighbours on Scimitar’s 3rd pitch took a fall with a scream loud enough to make anyone’s heartrate soar. Fortunately the fledgling flyer turned out to be unhurt and simply very badly shaken. It later transpired that a piece of rock had come off in his hand (one less handhold on this route now!). Back at the campsite it was definite midge-city. Interestingly midges seemed to be more attracted to black fleece than other colours, let that be remembered for next time!
Sunday: Beach day! As one we headed out to Ardnamurchan Peninsula, the western-most point in Scotland. Toys, toys, toys. Not to outdone by Andy, Ruth & Simon emptied their car contents onto the beach, cloth frisbees, bats and balls, snorkel, fins, mask, wetsuit, books ……. Toys R Us eat your heart out!
Nina T
Cic Hut, Ben Nevis, 16-18 July 2000
Present: Peter I, Anne M, Andy R, Marcellus S and Brian S.
The Y2K meet to the Ben was again between the 16th and 18th of the month, but this time July rather than June. The turn-out was small and select with only 5 trekking up the Allt a’Mhuillin on Friday. Pete arrived first in the early evening followed later by the others who had travelled up from Edinburgh together.
Saturday
Saturday morning was dry but overcast with the higher parts of the mountain obscured by mist. Andy and Marcellus headed off to the hardest of the Ben’s ridges,Observatory Ridge (V Diff) whilst Anne, Pete and Brian choose the easiest of the ridges, Castle Ridge (Mod/Diff). The latter party of three approached Castle Ridge by traversing round below the Carn Dearg Buttress thereby missing out the lower slabs above the Allt na Mhuillin. This traverse approach passes the start of many of the classic rock routes of the Carn Dearg Buttress such as Bullroar, Centurion, The Bat, Sassenach and Titan’s wall. No one was attempting these routes, however, since the rock was damp and mist cloaked the upper parts of the buttress.
The ascent of Castle Ridge is described in the guide book as “a worthwhile excursion, but mainly scrambling with a few moderate pitches”. Indeed, the rope was hardly necessary until past the middle section, which is almost level. Thereafter, the ridge narrows and steepens. On damp rock and entering wet mist, Anne and Pete were grateful for the rope on this upper section, particularly crossing a short slab leading to the final steep rib and the top of the buttress. By this time, it was raining properly and the party traversed away from the north wall of Carn Dearg to descend the steep screes to the half way Lochan and the path back round to the CIC rather than continuing round the other way to the summit of the Ben.
Meanwhile, on Observatory Ridge, Andy and Marcellus were into more difficult terrain much sooner and found themselves pitching the route in the damp conditions. Observatory Ridge is graded Very Difficult and described in the guide book as “a really splendid route, a must for everyone”. Andy and Marcellus had the route to themselves, however, and higher up in the mist and rain, found the route to be time consuming and slow. Care and patience were finally rewarded with their arrival at the top of the route near the summit cairn from where they descended the Carn Mor Dearg arete to Coire Leis and the short distance down to the hut.
The CIC drying room was put to full use whilst tales of sunnier climbs were exchanged over tea and other stronger beverages. The usual protracted meal with accompanying wine from Brian’s cache in the loft, rounded off the day while the mist and rain closed in outside.
Sunday
Sunday morning was similar to Saturday morning, still overcast, but again with mist higher up. Although no longer raining, the rock was clearly still wet from the overnight rain. All agreed to go down in search of some sunnier and drier conditions (see footnote) In Pete’s case this meant going home to his garden, whilst for Anne, Brian, Andy and Marcellus a visit was made to Creag na-h-Eighe, between Dunkeld and Pitlochry. A number of the short routes on the right (east) end of the crag were climbed, ranging from V Diff to VS, all on warm, dry rock in the sun!
In conclusion, a worthwhile weekend for the small FMC contingent. Perhaps it will be drier on the Ben for the Y2K+1 meet! Thanks to the SMC for the use of the hut.
Brian S
Footnote: Sunday afternoon on the Ben turned out to be dry and sunny after the unpromising start. This was the day that Jamie Andrew from Edinburgh reached the top of Ben Nevis to prove to himself and everyone else that he could climb again on the mountain where he had shared many days with his friend Jamie Fisher. The previous winter on the Droites, above Chamonix, the pair were trapped in a five day storm in which Fisher died and Andrew narrowly survived but lost both hands and both feet to frostbite.
Blackrock Cottage, Glen Coe, 11-12 August 2000
Present: Jo L, Brian S, Nina T, Pete & Helen I, James R, Tony B, Richard G, Andy R (Willie J, stayed Lagangarbh)
Saturday
Climbers and walkers were dropped off throughout Glen Coe. Jo, being Jo and as determined as ever, set off to conquer the Aonach Eagach ridge on her own. She soon bumped into a guy from Glasgow (well Bearsden, which apparently isn’t Glasgow at all to Weegies!) who didn’t stop talking the whole way. The views into Glen Coe were magnificent as the sun shone up the valley although things didn’t look too great on Bidean nam Bian; and there was no view towards the Mamores as cloud filled the valley (below the level of the ridge) immediately to the north! Weird. The walk was a mixture of walking and scrambling, and was exciting enough without being able to see the degree of exposure due to the low cloud in the north. At the end of the ridge however the good weather succumbed and the heavens opened resulting in a desperate slither down the front of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh back to the Glen Coe road. After a coffee in the Clachaig (with other ‘survivors’ of the ridge!) the now very degraggled Bidean nam Bian climbers squelched back to the car! They had set off in the morning fully equipped to climb in ……… Cave, but navigational hiccups and poor weather soon put pay to that. Still, lugging that gear was not put to waste as the ascent onto Stob Coire nam Beith was such that everyone had to rope up as the conditions were so chossy, slippery and dangerous! The Ilieves (also in the rain) did battle in the Mamores, whilst Richard headed off for a coffee shop (or at least a shopping) day in Fort William! Tony B and Willie had also set off armed to the eyeballs with climbing equipment; however they got about halfway up Spartan on the Etive Slabs before literally getting washed off. Half an inch of water on the slabs! They made it back to the hut in one piece only to meet a really spaced out Yank who shared a cup of tea with us!?
Sunday
Following tradition, Pete & Helen headed back early to civilisation, but not after dropping Richard to the start of the walk (in South Ballachulish) after he’d left his car at the end (the school in Ballachulish). With Jo and James, Richard walked the Ballachulish horseshoe (starting). The pathfinding of all left a lot to be desired whilst in the forest at the lower levels, but once on the bare hillside there were no navigational obstacles. At the col (Beinn a’Bheithir), a breather was taken, the view was admired, the health and safety of another rather overweight party puffing past was pondered, food was eaten, and packs were dumped to do the return trip up to Sgorr Dhonuill. From there they headed up to Sgorr Dhearg overtaking a much healthier looking group of puffers. Again, great views from the summit. The walk out (to the east of Beinn Bhan) was boggy and uneventful, although we did have to alert a farmer that one of his sheep was well and truly wedged in a feeding trough! Nina, having had a manic week down south, also headed off early. Willie didn’t climb because of injury to his foot or leg so Tony tagged along with Brian and Andy and got dragged up Shackle on Buchaille Etive Mor - with perfect grace I’m sure!?
Back at Blackrock the Ballachulish trio arrived back to the WORSE midges EVER come across. Black clouds of them. The three stood in the kitchen waving numerous burning midge coils around to try and alleviate part of the problem - the others on returning from their climb thought this was really strange activity, until they realised the millions they’d brought in on their jackets and promptly started the same ritual. A Stirling Moss was therefore made from the hut to the Kingshouse for tea. Back in Edinburgh though a veritable cloud of the little black beasties appeared from Brian’s boot ………
JL
Arran Camping Meet, 1-3 September 2000
Present: Valerie C, Calum M, Fiona M, Anne M, Graeme M (arrived Satuday afternoon), Andy R and Brian S
The club has generally enjoyed excellent weather for its visits to Arran. This weekend was no exception and there was settled weather with some sunshine on both days for the meet based at the campsite in Glen Rosa. One of the many attractions of Arran is the climate on the island, which is invariably different from the nearby mainland. It is possible to leave on the ferry from Ardrossan after days of pouring rain on the mainland to find it has been dry on Arran. On this occasion, we learned that Arran had enjoyed a particularly dry period of weather and we could expect dry rock on the island’s ridges and little difficulties with river crossings.
The party met up at Ardrossan pier on Friday for the early evening boat. Fortunately it was 10minutes late in leaving because Andy, Calum and Fiona had chosen an indirect route across from Edinburgh and would otherwise have been left to catch the later boat. Once at Brodick, the meet secretary assured everyone there were always taxis around to avoid the 40minute walk to Glen Rosa but by the time personnel and gear were off the boat, all the taxis had disappeared! Assistance from a local in the form of a phone number along with Andy’s phone soon rescued the situation and a taxi quickly materialised to take everyone to the campsite.
All was quiet in Glen Rosa with very few tents. It was clear all too soon why this was the case. The midges had taken over this part of the island and had eaten all visitors not equipped with suitable defences! In a short time however, the FMC tents were pitched and a defensive ring of smoke coils lit to deter invaders. After some tea and drams (for building up resistance to midges) everyone turned in.
Saturday
An excellent mix of routes were chosen on Saturday. Andy and Valerie headed for Cir Mhor to climb S’Wester Slabs (V Diff) and returned back via the A’Chir ridge (moderate), one of the best outings to be had anywhere in Scotland. Calum and Fiona also chose the traverse of the A’Chir ridge, whilst Brian and Anne walked part way up Glen Rosa to climb Goat Fell by its SSW ridge. After traversing to North Goat Fell and dropping to the Sannox/Rosa col, Anne returned down Glen Rosa to the campsite to leave Brian to continue up to Cir Mhor. For Brian, there was barely time to say but a few words to Andy and Val on the tiny summit of Cir Mhor before heading off to Caisteal Abhail and Suidhe Fhearghas via the Witches Step, then finally down to North Glen Sannox to catch the bus round to the end of Glen Rosa.
To escape the midges, Andy, Anne, Brian and Valerie eat out on Saturday evening in the restaurant situated in the former stables of Brodick Castle and were joined there by Graeme. Rather than driving from Edinburgh, he had travelled by train through to Glasgow Queen Street and then from Glasgow Central down to Ardrossan for the 6pm boat. Calum and Fiona remained in camp for their meal to fend off the midges and keep the coils smoking in their defensive ring.
Sunday
Sunday morning was a little cloudy, but dry with the promise of some sunshine later. Calum and Fiona headed for Goat Fell joining the tourist path from Brodick Castle across Glen Rosa from the campsite. Anne returned up Glen Rosa to tick off Caisteal Abhail, her only remaining Corbett on Arran. The remainder also went up the Glen towards the south ridge of Cir Mhor; Andy and Valerie to climb South Ridge Direct (Very Severe) with Brian and Graeme following the easier South Ridge Original (Hard Severe). The Original route traverses right at the foot of the ‘S’ crack on the Direct to avoid both this pitch and the infamous ‘Y’ crack above. After the traverse, it then moves up to gain a fine corner which is followed by a cracked wall to emerge at the top of the ‘Y’ crack where both routes rejoin. This enabled both parties to follow one another to the top of the buttress without slowing each other up.
All targets having been achieved for the weekend, the party returned in good time to the tents for some well-deserved tea before packing up. Once again the midges were out in force but with the help of the smoke coils and midge hoods, their advances were repulsed to allow an orderly retreat to the pier at Brodick and the boat back to Ardrossan. Just before heading out from the campsite, we were approached by a continental visitor who said be had been puzzled by what be thought were bee nets until realising their significance. After going on to say he had neither a midge hood or smoke coils, we took pity on him and left him the remains of some smoke coils.
It was a most enjoyable weekend in Arran but we were all glad to have been prepared for the Glen Rosa midges!
Brian S
September Voyage, 15-18 September 2000
The Vessel: Highland Rhapsody (Leith), Dufour 32 Classic
Inbhirfhaolain, Glen Etive, 22-23 September 2000
Present: Steve R, Steve E, Bob P, Cathy H, Jeremy W, Pete & Helen I, Grant
Friday night only: Jo L, Catriona P
Saturday night only: Mark L, Valerie C
Friday night
The monster-loony whisky drinking sect had one of their infrequent gatherings, but appeared not to have lost their touch as they demolished the best part of a bottle of 15yr old Dalwhinnie. Bob tried to pull the wool over the eyes of the most experience duo (Steve R and Jeremy) by trying to convince them that the pish he had in his plastic pop bottle had been decanted from his own bottle of 15yr old Dalwhinnie ….. Holes in this story soon came to light when the colour and taste of both exhibits were closely scrutinised. However, the inability of Steve R to scrutinise anything by the end of the evening was evident as he tried to lay claim to Steve E’s boots!
Saturday
Steve R was the first to bounce out of bed in the morning to head off fishing, but had crashed back into it before everyone else was moving!!! Although things looked a little damp, Jeremy, Steve E, Catriona, and Jo headed up the road to Dalness and started on the Lairig Gartain track before heading up into thick cloud and mist onto Stob Dubh (Buachaille Etive Beag). At the summit, and after lunch, there was a break in the cloud affording views to the south and Ben Starav, which Jeremy had intentions of climbing the following day. The weather was changeable over the next couple of hours, with frequent stops for hats on, hats off, jackets on, jackets off. On Stob Coire Raineach they again were graced with great views into Glen Coe with the Aonach Eagach ridge being plainly visible. The low cloud descended again. A short period of ‘panic’ ensued when Jeremy disappeared from sight, who later said that even with his name being called he had was so disorientated in the mist that he couldn’t work out which direction the calls were coming from! As they dropped from the wee Buachaille back onto the Lairig Gartain and below the cloud level, the views to the south opened right up, with the light reflecting off Loch Etive looking particularly impressive; Scotland at its most beautiful. Back at the car, Catriona and Jo headed back to Edinburgh (Jo had a 10km run on the Sunday) whilst Jeremy and Steve E headed back on foot to the hut. The Edinburgh-bound pair spotted the yellow peril hurtling en-route to Glen Etive.
Pete and Helen, put off by a bad forecast, wandered around the Glen Etive forest, whilst Bob forced Cathy and Grant up Stob Dubh, a Corbett on the east side of the glen. Steve wandered half way up the “wee Buachille” in order to cure his hangover.
Saturday night saw the arrival of Mark and Valerie, freshly returned from a week in the sun in Majorca. It was a quiet night compared to Friday, with the main highlight being Jeremy’s trying to explain the nature of his job, summarised below:
“blah, blah, blah ……….. MIDDLEWARE …………. blah, blah, blah ……………JAVA blah, blah, blah …………… CUSTOMERS SOLUTIONS……………… blah, blah, blah ……………… TECHNICAL SUPPORT …….. blah, blah, blah……………………. "
Even Pete, who knows a fair bit about software/IT was completely lost with Jeremy’s techo/sales talk. Bob, on the other hand, being a real technophobe, could only assume that Jeremy was in the coffee distribution business!
Sunday
Sunday morning saw the traditional rush for home. The Ilieves being shortly followed by Bob, Cathy and Grant. The remaining hardy souls were determined to do something, although the skies were overcast. They all headed for Beinn Trillichan, and despite the threatening clouds and the long trudge up the steep uneven ground, they were rewarded with reasonable views from the top. Mark insisted on returning via the “Slabs”, just to have a wee look.
JL & SR
Tweedsmuir CTC Hut, 7-8 October 2000
Present Saturday: James R, Calum M, Keith C, Tiana S, Richard G and Mark L
Present Sunday: James W and Gail W
Saturday
RAW it certainly was, but HIDE from the rain they could not! So saddling up at Richard’s (in Buckstone) was Tiana, Keith, Mark and James. Mark and James left the herd to round up Calum in Roslyn. Richard moseyed on down to WET Linton while Tiana and Keith took a detour to Dawyck.
Six strangers rolled into the town, with a mean determined look in their eyes, they had been in the saddle all day and were now heading single-mindedly towards the nearest watering hole (The Greenmantle) to beat the best the town had to offer (Ennio Marricone’s slow whistling could be heard coming from the bar) as the good the bad and the not so ugly if you please made their entrance as black silhouettes their steaming frames presented a menacing picture as they put their names down at the bar for a quick firing round of trivia questions which James met unflinchingly taking the pot of gold for his troubles.
Sunday
James W and Gail drove into town. The day was in stark contrast to the previous and the sun shone brightly. Richard chose to head back using the same route as he had come out on, somehow ending up in Achendinny - an interesting detour Richard! Meanwhile Tiana led the route over the much talked about Talla hill. OK yep it was steep but very short lived and well worth the view from the top. Wildlife that day was certainly wild we were almost taken off our bikes by a low flying buzzard (what an impressive sight) we spotted butterwort and hairbells still flowering despite it being very late autumn - even the Rowan trees were laden with berries. There was even the occasional heron doing a spot of Sunday fishing for the family. The viaduct was breathtaking with mountains rising steeply on either side with worn furrows where the water and time had left its indelible marks. The heather was differing shades of rusty reds and golden browns accented by the sun being low in the sky. Even the sheep joined in with their fleeces in differing shades of orange to pink (very odd indeed). The route was quiet and, apart from the occasional car, felt quite isolated and free. There were certain exposed areas on the route (at the top of the viaduct) but the wind was kind and the sun was warm.
James, Calum, Mark and Keith caught up with the group not far from the morning coffee stop, where James W and Gail stopped for lunch before heading back over Talla to see the sailing boats on the loch. The rest of the group thought it better to plough on to Innerleathen and over the Moorfoot hills, except for Keith and Tiana who took a ‘short cut’ which they had not done before - the lesson here is to perhaps stick to what you know because it ended up taking them further and further away from the ultimate destination in a strange circular route!?
Gail W
Inver Croft, Achnasheen, 13-14 October 2000
Present: Brian S, Anne M, Fen, Jo L, Val L, James R
Saturday
Anne, being the proud owner of a book of Skye Bridge tickets headed, with Brian and Fen, off to Skye to get rid of at least one more return journey ticket! The weather was terrible (low cloud level and the wind was up) so they had a wander through the Quiraing with a seat on The Table as Glamaig was somewhat uninviting, even to Brian!!! Fen caused no end of nervousness as she kept getting too close to the edge for comfort! James, Val and Jo headed to Achnashellach Station with the intention of going up Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh. They had hoped to pick up some stalking information at the Station, but no number was available. About 20 minutes into the walk they came across a notice with stalking details and a stalking information number - which was duly called resulting in an ansaphone telling you of the types holidays the Estate offers and suggesting you leave your name and number if you want any information sent out …. So the merry little band continued forth - ignorance is bliss and all that. However, what had started out to be a lovely sunny morning very quickly became squally with rain showers, and hail at one point. Things suddenly changed from a pleasant walk to a manic donning of waterproofs and finding of shelter. Sitting huddled in a natural dip lunch was eaten whilst the decision not to continue was made. What had been a wonderful view up the valley of the horseshoe shaped ridge was no more. A rapid retreat was made. Val commented that even if the sun had come out and James had suggested continuing her enthusiasm levels were such that she wouldn’t have wanted to - how little she knows James, once in retreat-mode there’s no turning back!!! Back at the hut, typically, the weather started to clear up. So to keep busy, they chopped, sawed and hacked some firewood. The train line is not far from the hut, and they watched as one of the end of season Royal Scotsmen (an Orient Express like train) chugged by, they felt like the Railway Children waving to the rather uninspired passengers!
Sunday
Ben Damh and Beinn Alligin. Anne, Brian and Fen had a successful day on Ben Damh managing to get back to their car before the wind really started to blow and before the heavens really opened. James, Jo and Val also made it to the summit of their chosen range, Beinn Alligin, with Val being able to double the number of Munros she’s ever climbed (from 2 to 4 - I’m working hard to get the family to move to Scotland!!). A great day, but bloody hard work. The route took them via the Horns that involved a lot of scrambling; brilliant fun! As we got higher the wind got stronger, to the extent that we skirted the Horns to get to the first summit. The second Munro was gained, photos were taken, and then the work really began. The wind that had been strong near the Horns, was funnelled up the Coir’an Laoigh and was very powerful. Often your feet didn’t end up where you wanted them (ie on the ground would be good!) - sometimes resulting in you actually being blown over! A battle, but not impossible. Whilst that had been an endurance test, the next stage was an agility test; a river crossing (which could have been avoided if we’d walked a couple of km upstream back to the bridge (I’ve since discovered heading west would have avoided all this - all because someone has been on a particular hill before doesn’t mean they right!?! - Jo). James found a fabulous river crossing point (fabulous that is if you have the sure-footedness of a mountain goat and 6ft long legs …….); oh the joy (and relief) of walking poles. Anyway, one major adrenaline rush later the merry little band was safely across and on its way back to the car and the hut for a strong coffee!
On arrival back at the hut they find police in the lay-by and a rather mangled looking car on the other side of the road. The hut lights warm and inviting actually indicated the presence of another group rather than Brian, Anne and Fen who were now long gone! A quick pack-up whilst hearing the tale of helicopters and ambulances on the road during the last couple of hours.
In an Aberdeenshire paper the driver, in broad daylight, apparently swerved to avoid a deer resulting in the writing off of his car, and the death of one of his two passengers. The road between Achnasheen and Achnashellach has been straightened resulting in traffic travelling much faster - please travel with care! - Jo.
JL
Annual Dinner Meet, Birnam House Hotel, Birnam, 27-29 October 2000
Present: Jo L, Catriona P, James R, Andy R, Verity C, Debbie K, Steve R, Cormac R, Lewis R, Mark L, Valerie C, Thomas L, Julia L, Graham C, Angela C, Tony B, Andrea B, Tony K, Fiona K, Hillary S, Rona S (+2), Gordon C, Morag M, Fiona N, Sue A, Andrew H, Maureen B, Lorraine B, Karyn B, Anne M, Debbie M, Joanna M, Neil W, Clare W, Gavin W, Paul J & Elizabeth, Katherine G & Stuart, Bill M-R, Keith C, Charlie S, Pamela P, Willie J, Nina T, Dave B, Anne B, Bob P, Cathy H, Janey C, Andrew A, Josie L, Laubie L, Richard G, Martin R, Fiona M, Calum M, Brian S, Anne M
(Total 61)
Saturday
Some of the team arrived on Friday night, and put pay to one of the three barrels of beer that H had put on for the club …… a couple of funny heads I believe this morning! One determined team (Tony K, Fiona K, Brian, Anne, Richard and Martin) headed up a Corbett north of Garva Bridge (on the Corrieairack road) - the name of which has currently been forgotten - to blow away any form of hangover. Neil and Clare set off with Hillary and a very sick H who’d drunk a bit too much the night before and was very quiet along the twisty roads!!. They headed up a Corbett above Kinloch Rannoch - the name of which has also alluded this team! They were very quickly walking in thick mist so unfortunately didn’t see much at all! The Williams had successfully ’leant’ wee Gavin to Maureen, her two sisters, and an army of young helpers who all went to Perth for entertainment. Mark and Valerie had headed out to Ben Verakie, but a running injury of Mark’s put pay to that so they ended up bike hunting in Pitlochry. A very very soggy and muddy Andy and James were spotted wandering through the reception after an epic mountain biking experience on a nearby moor!
Laubie went to play golf at the Birnam & Dunkeld golf course whilst Josie and Jo followed the Fungarth forest walk down to the Scottish Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve at Loch of Lowes. From there they trashed through bracken to summit Crieff Hill (192m) before heading along the edge of the muddiest forest track known to any creature (knee deep, and more!). The latter part of the walk was through a beech wood with wonderful autumn colours and great noises as the leaves were kicked and jumped about in …….errrr. Back at the golf course Laubie had finished his round of golf (he’s a bit good!) so they headed back to the Hotel.
Early evening a small number started congregating in the reception area to chat, have pre-dinner drinks and to play with the children (well, the ones that were available - the girls were in their ‘dressing rooms’ putting some of the adults (me!) to shame with the efforts they made with their appearance).
The meal was a great success - 52 sat down to eat (the 61 figure includes children and those who ceilidhed rather than ate). The food was outstanding, and much better (and hotter!) than we had last year. In general, the service from the Hotel was fantastic. The ceilidh duo, Laird MacDonald, and Bob the Fiddler (not a patch on Bob the Builder!?) were unique! They knew before they started that the FMC have a number of experienced dancers, hence the faster beat, and a few made up ones to keeps everyone alert! Arms were recorded to still be tender on Tuesday after the longest Orcadian Strip the Willow the hotel had ever seen! The bar downstairs stayed open until the last drunken bod staggered to bed; Calum, Jo, and Laubie at 0415 (old time).
Sunday
Breakfast at 9am - a few grey faces, a few no-shows, but generally everyone looked pretty bright eyed and bushy tailed. Mark and Valerie were spotted coming back from an early morning run - they obviously didn’t put enough effort into the ceilidh!!!
Activity biorhythms were generally low. Some folk headed off to see the 1,000-year old oak tree (becoming accomplished acorn thieves!) before ambling along and catching up with what must have been the majority of the 61 in the Hermitage, which was in impressive gushing form. A pick-me-up after such strenuous exercise was provided by Kate’s tea-room. Some just headed straight home, whilst Jo, Catriona, Fiona N, Sue and Scally (Sue’s dog) headed along the riverbank at Killiecrankie.
A hugely successful weekend. The cost of the ceilidh was covered by the £5 ‘fee’; the club made a tenner in fact! A new venue will be investigated for next year, but I think the ceilidh option should still be considered; but give me the Christmas Dinner Meet to organise any day!!!
JL
Day Meet, Beinn Dubhchraig, 18 November 2000
The plan for this week-end was the Lake District, but the less than enthusiastic response from the club led to the meet being cancelled. As a consolation prize, a day meet was organised and imagine the meet sec’s joy on receiving no less than ten immediate e-mail responses! However closer examination revealed a catalogue of lame excuses - away to England for the week-end, attending a horticultural society AGM, being too tired after a holiday in Brazil, being away in Antarctica, going Christmas shopping….. I ask you, what sort of club is this????
Anyway, a hardy (!) trio, the meet sec, Tony B and Peter F decided to enjoy the splendour of Scotland’s icy mountains and duly sallied forth into a grey dawn. In fact, it was so grey that the junction on the motorway was missed and a scenic detour via Glasgow was used to reach Crianlarich. The objective for the day was Beinn Dubhchraig, chosen by Tony B as it was, in his words, “the wettest Munro he’d ever climbed, and he wanted to see the view”. Radio Scotland predicted a cloudbase of 300ft, a summit temperature of -20C and a wind of 40mph, gusting 70mph - just as well nobody believes these things!
It was not entirely wet. No, some of the time it snowed. In fact, it wasn’t that bad, and Tony got his view - see the picture below! In classic FMC style, the descent lasted until well after sunset, providing another stunning view.
Anyway, we enjoyed it. The good news was that the weather in the Lakes was really bad!
Tony K
Hogmanay 2000
A personal look back over the Year, and the Final Day. It was December, the final day of the year 2000.
It had been a memorable year for me from both the skiing and mountaineering point of view. There had been a March visit to Spokane with skiing at resorts in Idaho, Montana and across the Canadian border in British Columbia. On returning home, visits to the CIC on the Ben and to Ling Hut in Torridon had been followed by early summer trips for long hillwalks in the Islands and the North West. As usual, summer rock climbing in Scotland was often weather affected but there had been some special days on Garbh Bheinn, Ardnamurchan and Glencoe when rock was warm to the touch and the sun shone from a clear blue sky. Summer had eventually faded into autumn but for me there had been lots more to look forward to with a November trip to the Vinson Massif in Antarctica!
The long journey south occupied a longer time than planned but had ultimately been successful with the ascent of the highest point on the most southerly continent. The trip to Antarctica would remain in my memory as far more than a journey to a new location to climb another mountain, but rather as a pilgrimage to the place I had read about in books describing Ernest Shackleton’s journeys of exploration. By the time I returned to Scotland, snow had fallen, winter had arrived and under three weeks of the old year remained. An ascent of the Sron na Lairigridge in Glencoe the week before Christmas and some wintry days on nearby Corbetts during the snowy spell between Christmas and New Year whetted my appetite for the winter climbing prospects ahead.
Over the New Year holiday period we were based on the shores of Loch Awe within an hours drive of many good areas so there was considerable discussion the night before as to what was best for a day out on Hogmanay. The final choice was for Beinn Udlaidh since this was closest at hand, offered a short approach to the climbs, and with a poor afternoon forecast, a relatively easy retreat. Many of the year’s memories occupied me as I walked into Beinn Udlaidh that morning and the time passed easily despite the weight of a winter sack. Over twenty other cars were parked at the roadside and once we were in the corrie, it was clear that on most of the ice climbs that had formed, there was at least one party already at work. The wind was rising too, indicating that the forecast deterioration in the weather seemed to be arriving sooner rather than later. Our party of four closed in on the crags and found shelter behind one of the large corrie boulders to have a bite and decide what to do. Since Valerie and Steve were concerned that the easier routes could be avalanche prone, they indicated that they would probably settle for a circuit of the corrie taking in the summit cairn and make their own way to Bridge of Orchy afterwards.
This left Mark and myself to make our route choice. From our vantage point in the corrie, the main area around Quartzvein Scoop offered the best looking ice and indeed the party on that route appeared to be moving up steadily. We headed up taking in a detour to inspect the attractive looking South Gully of the Black Wall, before traversing to the foot of Quartz vein Scoop. Here we met a pair of climbers who had abandoned Zig Zag Gully, the grade 2 to the left. Their retreat had been due to insufficient ice on the route and they were about to head back down after a brief stop to munch their sandwiches. Upon Quartzvein Scoop, the party we had seen earlier from the corrie below had topped out but a second party was on the main icefall pitch. Since the ice appeared to be well formed with the promise of good protection under the steeper and narrower upper section, we geared up and awaited our turn. Mark headed up from the belay climbing the steep ice steadily and confidently. The ice was not of uniform consistency and needed some care when moving up the steeper sections or placing protection. Nevertheless, he was enjoying the sharp precision of his newly acquired axes although he had to keep his head down from time to time to avoid the bits of ice coming down from the party above. Meanwhile, at the foot of the icefall, I was well protected to the left being sheltered beneath a small roof which deflected most of the falling ice, so patiently waited my turn.
After a considerable wait, a shout and the well accustomed tug came on the rope and I moved off. It was good to be on steep ice again but I regretted not sharpening my own axes to help me on the hard and sometimes brittle ice. Above the narrow upper section of the icefall, Mark was safely secured in a cave on the right and announced that he had decided to wait to allow the previous occupant to clear the belay before bringing me up. The way ahead led up to the left, onto a left trending ramp and then presumably to the top of the route. We agreed that with a possibly awkward cornice, a belay should be sought before such a hazard. This would allow the rope to be run out over the cornice exit comfortably with sufficient rope to reach the easy ground well back from the edge.
I set off from the security of the cave, and having placed an ice screw, headed up on to the ramp. The conditions here were deteriorating rapidly and away from the shelter of the cave, there was a whirlwind of spindrift everywhere and snow building up around me at an alarming rate. Each step upwards required a lot of snow to be swept off to find the secure snow ice beneath and I became ever more aware of the precarious position I was in. Ahead, I made out a lump in the snow and once there thankfully drove a warthog into turf adjacent to the buried rock. This gave me the confidence to continue up and I spotted the signs of another rock a further few feet away. I was starting to explore the ground around the rock with my right axe with a view to putting in further protection, when with a low muffled sound, everything seemed to started moving around me.
For several seconds, snow poured everywhere, and thinking I had been swept away, I waited for the thump of being brought to rest by the rope or of hitting something on the way falling back down the route. There was nothing however and, as the snow cleared around me, I found I was hanging by my left axe a short distance beneath my rock. I had clearly brought the upper snow slope down on top of me by probing around the rock and had been saved by my left axe which I had instinctively driven in a few seconds before. As I tried to regain my stance, I realised that my left foot was not obeying commands and was incapable of taking any weight after the front points were driven in. It was now essential that I make myself safe by securing some sort of belay since my ankle was clearly damaged in some way. I found that by kicking in with my right foot and then shuffling up onto the heel of my left foot, I could regain some security beside the rock and set to work on the belay. Two driven warthogs plus a driven axe and I prepared to bring Mark up.
The spindrift relented a little as Mark approached the warthog placement at the first rock and I warned him of my predicament. The look of disbelief coupled with possible irritation at the time he had waited, changed to one reflecting the seriousness of our position. He had seen the avalanche come down from the security of the cave and had thought initially I might have been completely swept off. During the time that the avalanche had taken to pass, the cave had gone quite dark as if a great dark curtain had been draped across it but he had been relieved when light was restored that the rope still curved upwards onto the ramp. He now removed the warthog and without questioning my assertions that the belay was secure, moved below and to the left of where I was belayed. Here the snow appeared less steep and we hoped an exit could be made without further incident. After placing a further warthog drive in, he moved cautiously on to the unconsolidated snow above. Gradually I paid out the ropes as Mark edged towards safety until he finally disappeared from view onto the open hillside above. The ropes ran out quickly as a belay was reached and the muffled call to follow came down through the storm. The belay I had constructed with the warthogs was reassuringly difficult to remove and I set off towards the top. The ropes dug into the snow as I moved up the unconsolidated snow and frequently I had to flick them clear to enable Mark to take in and protect my own slow progress. Finally, I was over the top and safe at the belay. By now it was nearly dark, there was a full bore storm in progress and our problems were clearly far from over.
We packed away the gear plus one of the ropes and decided on a traverse to clear the crags followed by a descent of what should be a straightforward ridge. This would bring us down to near the edge of the forest from where we would have to find the track back to the road. We kept a short rope between us for most of the descent and on a number of occasions were glad of its security, as benign looking snow slopes beneath us proved to be unstable traps, forcing us to take long detours. Progress over rough ground and boulders was slow as I hobbled along with the help of my ski poles but on easier gentle slopes I could almost keep up a respectable pace. During breaks in the storm it was possible to see some of the ground ahead and periodically we checked our position on the map. Finally we reached the lower section of the ridge and could make out the forest edge, an isolated cottage and far beyond the line of the glen. We removed our crampons and harnesses, packed them away and enjoyed a few minutes rest during which we had something to eat and drink to prepare ourselves for the next section. This part of the descent proved the worst for both of us. After following the fence at the forest edge for what seemed an eternity, sometimes up to our waists in new snow, the fence then headed back up the hillside! The snow became even deeper and we decided to turn back on our tracks. We then crossed the fence into the forest plantation, which at this point was relatively open but crossed by many furrows and ditches hidden by the blanket of snow. Eventually, we made our way down a firebreak and after a further traverse through the trees recognised the burn coming down from the corrie. After crossing to the other side we were able to find the track leading down to the farm and the road beyond. The descent had taken 3� hours but it had been completed without incident and as far as I could tell without further damage to my ankle.
All the other cars had gone and there was no sign of the others waiting for us at the roadside. A note at the car advised us they had taken a lift to Bridge of Orchy and would see us there. To help us, they had already put on the snow chains so the final return leg of our journey began. At Bridge of Orchy, there were no signs of life but a further note on the closed door directed us to Tyndrum and a successful rendezvous with Valerie and Steve who were relieved to see us, particularly when we gave them our account of the day. They had wisely decided against doing a climb themselves and had completed the circuit of the corrie as planned. They also confirmed the rapid deterioration in the conditions as they started to descend in the afternoon presumably coincident with the time we had run into difficulties on the upper part of our route. We all headed back to Loch Awe to celebrate the end of the old year and welcome in the new. I was again left with my memories as I sipped a dram after the bells heralded in the New Year.
The final piece of my year 2000 jigsaw was indeed in place but not as I had ever intended. The last day of the year would also determine what I would be able to do in the weeks and months ahead. Two days later, my ankle showed no signs of improvement and a visit to Vale of Leven followed by a second visit to Paisley Royal Alexandra Hospital confirmed my suspicions of a ruptured Achilles tendon.
The New Year would start with ten weeks in plaster and a long period of recuperation.
Brian S